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When yoa have read THE YANKEE IN 

QUEBEC ask your stationer or bookman 
to send to the Emerson Press, 149 Broad- 
way, Kew York City, for MY FRIEND 
BILL, of which the Book World says : 
•' It is the ])est book of Li^-ht Fiction 
we have ever read " 

PRICB, S1.50. 



*:< 






THE 



YANKEE IN QUEBEC 



AUTHOR Ol*' 

Mv T'KIKNT) IJiT.r- 

Nationat, Hvmn to the Kt,A(? 

TrtK Cuban Battt-e Hymn 

Some Deed oe \^'oKTn 

Etc:., Eat;. 










F» U B r. 1 S H E 1> B Y 

^PHE KMEKSON I^KESW 
140 Broadway, Nkav York 

AND 

The <c^tjebec ]S'E^V's 0(i. 

:j1 Bctadk St., Qttebec;, Can. 






DEDICATED 

TO 

THE OTHER YANKEES 

ivJw )u ay follow my footsteps into that dearest, 

quaintest, most pictuyesque, most — 

7L'ell get Webster and copy 

them all in — -for they 

all belong 

TO QUEBEC, 

7C'here I had the most delightful visit of 
my life, in the Summer of igoi . 






Rkgistkred in eonfoiinity with Act of the Pailiameiit of 
C'cuutda, in the year 1901, by Ansox A. Gard. in the 
office of the Minister of Agriculture at Ottawa. 



INTRODUCTION 

Vt is not my purpose to give the history 
^ of Quebec, Sir James M. LeMoine, 
the Grand Old Man of the Dominion, has 
done that too well to leave anything to 
say ; neither it is my purpose to write 
a guide book, Frank Carrel, the able 
editor of the TelegrcqjJi, and E. T. D. 
Chambers, whose literary writings are 
well known in the States, have supplied 
this want. 

I would simply have you use my eyes, 
through which to see, one of the most pic- 



6 Int}'oductio)i. 

turesque old cities in theTVestern World. 
I said " one of" — unnecessary words, take 
them away, they are out of place, when 
speaking of Quebec. 

I may not in this volume follow the 
true lines of literature. I will try not to 
do so at least. So dear reader if you 
find any of the set rules broken, just 
credit me up with that much, if nothing 
more. 

My object will have been attained, if I 
can produce a little volume, whose read- 
ing, by my country men, will turn the 
tourist toward this delightful old city, 
knowing full well that every one sa 
influenced will ever thank me for 

" The Yankee in Quebec " 



Cbe VanKee in QmW 



Vte wasn't born in Kentucky, neither 
-^ [ was he old enough to have been 
in the war, yet we always called himi 
'^ Colonel." His other name was Hora- 
tius, and " Col. Horatius" seemed to fit,, 
so we let it go at that. I never knew 
just why the Colonel had left the States 
for Quebec. Some said, that being very 
patriotic, he had left for the good of his 
country. Be that as it may, I am indebted 
to him for the " best time "I've ever had 
and I'm not going to say a word " agin " 
the Colonel, even if I could. 



8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

" Come to Quebec Rube, I'll show 3^ou 
the quamtest, most picturesque, most de- 
lightfully charming old city in America ! " 
The Colonel used a large number of other 
adjectives in his letter of invitation, and 
while I thought, at the time, he was a 
little "off," I have learned by reality that 
instead, his use of that part of speech is 
very meagre indeed. But I don't blame 
the Colonel, even Webster himself would 
have had to invent new adjectives had he 
visited this dear old town before writing 
his " stor}^ of words." 

At the time I received the Colonel's 
letter of invitation, my conception of Que- 
bec was a small round spot on the map. 
I knew that it was on a river called the 
St. Lawrence, but had to refer to the 
aforesaid map to determine on which side 
of the river. 'Tis true, I had seen pictures 
of the city, with men climbing impossible 
hills,with other men on top of the heights, 
shooting down at the climbers, but I knew 



The Yankee in Quebec. 9 

naught of enough to warrant a trip of over 
five hundred miles, and all the adjectives 
in the Colonel's meagre vocabulary were 
necessary to give courage for the start. 
But once here, I ceased to wonder why 
men by the names of Wolfe, Montgomery, 
Arnold and a host of others, had been so 
desirous of getting into Quebec. 

In taking a trip for pleasure, never go 
direct to your objective point, if there be 
aught worth seeing by the way. I found 
much to see, but as soon as I reached 
the Province of Quebec, I found a great 
deal that I couldn't understand, more 
especially the language. My French 
education had once been attempted, but 
after many years, all that " stuck " was 
" Parlay voo jrancy " and a few other 
words quite as useful. 

" Le meme chose '' 

I remembered meant " the same thing," 
and like a child just learning to talk, I 



JO The Yankee in Quebec. 

•\vas anxious for an occasion to use it. It 
soon came. Seated one day at a hotel 
table, where English was a dead language, 
I was given a few of the preliminaries, 
'but soon wanted more, as I was very 
hungry that day. A gentleman at my 
right gave an order, as I thought, and I 
proudly said to the pretty waitress. " JLe, 
meme chosen She went away smiling, 
but as she brought nothing for us, I 
•succeeded finally in asking my " rescuer" 
to the right, what he had ordered. *' I 
^ay to ze mam sell, I wants nutting 
more " — and I had been waiting for " Le 
meme chose.'''' 

** I beg your pardon ! " 

What will most try yo\xv good nature 
possibly, is to sit, with " French at a 
glance, " and laboriously pick out what 
you want to order, and when at last you 
iiave framed your sentence, to your own 
satisfaction, to have some pretty little 



The Yankee in Quebec. ii 

"waitress, who has stood smihng at you 
during the -whole effort, sweetly say to 
you, the one single English sentence 
that she knows : " I beg your pardon ! " 
which translated, means " try again." 
Then you look at your little book only 
to find you'd been trying to talk to j^our 
"washerwoman." 

Miibe wants a cuiller. 
Worse still, however, may be the one 
who thinks she grasps your meaning. One 
day at dinner I wanted a spoon, which I 
remembered was " cuiller " in French, so 
I called for " euiller,^^ but was surprised to 
have the waitress bring me a beefsteak, 
she having thought I Jiad said '' cuir " 
which is French for leather. The mistake 
in this case consisted in her misunderstand- 
ing my word. There may be much of ten- 
derness in Canada, but in the country 
hotels, beefsteak is not on the list. This 
absence does not apply to the cities, where 
the " tables" are all that one could wish. 



12 The Yankee in Quebec. 

WHAT YOU SEE BY THE WAY. 

One of the first things you will note in 
passing through Canada, especially so, if 
you are farmer born, will be the long nar- 
row fields, many of them not over 200 feet 
wdde, with all the farm buildings at one 
end, facing on the main road. For that 
matter all roads are " main," and very 
few of them. This is no doubt a good 
plan, for it takes off the loneliness of 
country life, and makes of the farming 
district one long village. Your notion 
of Canada may be a vast, well wooded 
country. This may have once been true,, 
and far from the railroads is yet so, but 
the devastation of the timber, in many 
districts, has been so great that farmers 
have to drive eight and ten miles for 
their fire w^ood, which they gather in the 
autumn in neighborhood " wood parties." 

Whether by long custom, or for some 
other reason, the farmers plow their fields 



The Yankee in Quebec. i^ 

in little " lands," not over a rod wide, 
leaving a " dead " furrow between. One 
seldom sees a Held of wheat, and corn 
never, at any rate not in this Province. 
There may be a system of farming here, 
but it will never be adopted by our people. 
I have seen in a five acre field, oats, bar- 
ley, rye, timothy and potatoes, all growing 
side by side. Yet for all this seeming 
lack of system I am told that the " habi- 
tant " (French farmer) is often a man of 
means and seldom poor. He may make 
but little, yet he always lays by a part of 
that little. We sell our hay by the ton, 
here it is gathered into bundles of fifteen 
pounds, bound, with a " hay twist," and 
sold, so much per hundred bundles. So 
expert is the hay maker, that he can 
guess, within a few ounces at farthest, of 
the requisite fifteen pounds. The farm 
wagon is usually a two wheeled cart, 
drawn by one horse. This ^' cart " is farm 
wagon, road wagon and buggy all in one. 



14- The Yankee in Quebec. 

The maisons (houses) of the habitant are 
all after one pattern, mostly one story. 
The roofs are seldom straight, the rafters 
are cut with a " dish " so that a line 
drawn from the cone to the eaves would 
not touch the roof at any part, and within 
three feet of the eaves, it may be eight 
inches from the shingles. The housewife 
usually surrounds her dwelling with pretty 
flowers, so that while the maison may not 
be architecturally beautiful, it is home- 
like, and gives one a feeling of comfort. 
These people in their simple ways seem to 
be content and happy, which in the end is 
better, no doubt, than our great advance- 
ment (?) in country life, where we vie with 
the cities and always keep in debt. 

My notion of Canadian weather was 
mixed up with snow shoes and ice palaces, 
and although the Colonel's invitation 
came in June, the weight of my baggage 
was largely due to the heavy underwear 
with which it was loaded down. When, 



The Yankee in Quebec. 15 

liowever, the thermometer got to playing 
gleefully among the nineties, my notion 
changed, and I felt quite at home in the 
lightest possible clothing. Here's the 
difference, however hot the days, the 
nights are cool and enjoyable. Before I 
•left Canada, the Quebecer had quite con- 
vinced me that even winter was not only 
endurable but delightfully enjoyable. — 
Moral, never have a notion of any place 
until you get there. 

I reached Quebec in time to see the 
city celebrate 

" DOMINION DAY," JULY I, 

not with a noisy Fourth of July demonstra- 
tion, but m quiet enjoyment. Flags gave 
the city a gay appearance and everybody 
seemed happy. The small boy had fired 
no ''crackers," but he went to bed that 
nisrht with all his fino;ers intact, and was 
content. I have since noted that this 
day's celebration was indicative of the 



1 6 The Yafikee in Quebec. 

people. Their conception of " a good 
time " is not spelled ** hilarious." From 
the common labourer to the most cul- 
tured, they are gentle and courteous in 
their manner toward each other, as well 
as toward the stranger. 

Levis is the '' Jersey City " of Quebec. 
It is across the St. Lawrence, which is 
about as wide as the Hudson river at New 
York City. You cross by a small ferry 
boat, pointed at either end, and is entered 
by footmen and teams, through openings 
in the side. 

The first impression of Quebec is that 
of a great flat rock dropped down upon 
a plain 2,000 feet wide, covering about 
two thirds of the front area, reaching in 
places almost to the river's edge. 

" Here you are at last, Rube 1 '' 

was the Colonel's greeting as I got off the 
ferryboat down on Dalhousie street. " I 
had quite given you up, — thought yoa had 



The Yankee in Quebec. 17 

gotten frozen out and gone back home. " 
The Colonel had not forgotten my notion 
of cold (?) Canada, and was using it 
against me, with the thermometer at 80 
in the shade. " Oh no " said I, mopping 
my brow, '' it may be a little chilly, but 
I come prepared ", with a nod at my 
baggage. " Xo, Colonel, I have been 
doing the Province as I came along, seeing 
its people, and learning French. Why, I 
started in with one sentence of three words, 
and now I know—" " How many ? " 
broke in the Colonel, who had been 
here a year and didn't know even one. 
" No matter, you wouldn't know if I 
told you. " Then I thought of my 
" cxdr " (pronounced kweer) experience 
at the country hotel, and changed the 
subject. 

From that first day until I left, the 
Colonel kept me on the move. It was 
just like going through an old museum. 
You look at the outside of the building 



1 8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

and feel that it will take but a short 
while to " do, " but when you visit ro nu 
after room, case after case, each case 
tilled with objects of interest, time flies 
unnoted and still there is ever something 
new to see. So with the quaint old city, 
every turn brings into view some object 
with a history. It may be a thick 
walled building that has stood the fires and 
storms of centuries, or it may be some 
monument to a hero long turned back to 
mother dust. ~^o matter what the turn, 
you are sure to find there something 
worth coming far to see. The very vehi- 
cles in the narrow streets are found no 
where else but in Quebec. The Caleche — 
a two wheeled buggy-like affair, where 
the driver sits on the dashboard while 
the " fares " go bounding along with the 
mixed feeling of riding a camel and a 
ship in a storm, looks to the observer 
anything but comfortable, especially so if 
the road be rough. I asked one day 



The Yankee in Quebec. ig 

why the " drays " are so narrow, and 
was told they were built so to fit the 
streets. They are simply a two poled 
skid on two wheels and yet they can 
haul anything under the sun with them. 
Speaking of the streets you should see 
some of them 1 Ten and twelve feet wide ! 
Why, ^L Pierre, (St. Peter) the " Wall 
Street " of the city, is hut a rod in width, 
not counting the sidewalks — a narrow 
footing, made for two, unless the pedes- 
trians themselves he too " wide ", when 
they must then go Indian file. I asked 
the Colonel one day why there were so 
many Saints on the Quebec calendar, and 
he said he didn't know, unless it was- 
that there might be enough names for all 
the streets. As it was, there were not 
enough, by one, to go around. That one 
is the Fifth Avenue of Quebec and is 
called the Grande Allee —because it is sa 
wide. On this Avenue is the Parliament 
building situated in beautifully kept park 



20 The Yankee in Quebec. 

like groancls. Some very fine, modern 
residences are to be seen in this vicinity. 

LE CHIEN d'OR. 

I had scarcely gotten well located when 
the Colonel set me to reading Lit Chi en 
D'Or (The Golden Dog) by Wm. Kirby, 
*' Read this book," said he, ^' and you will 
have a good foundation on which to begin 
enjoying the old town." The advice was 
good, and I pass it along with emphasis. 

Almost the lirst sentence is : 
" See Quebec and live for ever,'' 

At the end of my visit I could not but 
feel that if life could continue as delight- 
fully on, I would gladly welcome the 
quotation as a reality. 

" To-morrow morning we will go at 
sunrise to the heights just outside tho 
Citadel walls, where you will get a view, 
the like of which you have never befon) 
seen. It will give you a conception no) 



The Yankee in Quebec. 2r 

only of the city, but the surrounding 
country as well." This from the Colonel, 
whose reputation for early rising was 
never the best, came, as a greater surprise, 
when he said that the sun rose at 4.10. 



VIEW FROM CITADEL WALL, 



Oh that view ! It will remain as a lasting 
picture in the gallery of memory. You 
sweep the eye around over hundreds of 
square miles, and in no direction is there 
ought but that which is pleasing. Ta 
the north east, the river abruptly widens 
past the city, from one mile to a great 



22 The Yankee in Quebec. 

bay of five miles in width, and in the cen- 
tre distance, stands boldly out the historic 

Isle of Orleans, 

To the north, beyond the Beauport Val- 
l^y? y^^u see in the far distance the 
Laurentian mountains, covered with dense 
forests to their very crown. The Falls 
of Montmorency are in plain view, eight 
miles away, where the waters fall into 
the St. Lawrence. Following up to 
the west, over this Beauport Valley, 
your eye moves with snail like motion, 
for everj^ part is beautiful. You look 
it over, and come again and again to 
feast your eyes upon the scene. Here 
and there, over the gently undulating 
expanse, you may count village after vil- 
lage, with their ever present church spire. 
The whole valley is dotted by the little 
white maisons of the habitant, making it 
seem one continuous village. The Beau- 
port to the north west blends into the 



Ihe Yankee in Quebec. 2j 

valley of the St. Charles, which reaches 
away toward the Indian village of Lo- 
rette, and loses itself to sight. To the 
west, you look across the Plains of Ahra- 
ham, which begin at the western wall of 
the Citadel, and run from St. Louis road 
to the St. Lawrence river, extending to 
the west, almost to Wolfe's cove. Look- 
ing over the southern wall of the Citadel, 
almost straight down 400 feet to the St. 
Lawrence, you get a view most thrilling. 
Across the river, and beyond Levis — a 
little city of 10,000 people — your vision 
reaches to the mountains of Maine, sixty 
miles away. This whole scene is one 
vast circular 

Panorama of Peace, 

Close your eyes and wander back for near- 
ly 400 years, and the panorama vaguely 
blends itself into one of War. There in 
the harbor you see slowly sailing in, " the 
first arrivals from the sea" — time 1635 — 



24- The Yankee in Quebec. 

three small ships, under Jacques Cartier, 
Jja Grande Hermine, La Petite Hermine 
and L^Emerillon, and as tJie time creeps 
on, you see many hostile fleets in this 
broad expanse of water, pouring their 
solid shot into the battle scarred city, 
whilst almost at your very side stand a 
Frontenac, or a Montcalm, answering 
back solid shot, in defiance. Look, look in 
any direction, where you will, on land, are 
marchings and counter marchings, storm- 
ing and beating back, until you seem to 
be in the midst of 

One Vast Battle Field. 

You open again your eyes, go out among 
the people, and lose all belief in prenatal 
influence, for a more amiable, peace loving 
people, I have never met, than these chil- 
dren of a race, born, and nurtured through 
centuries of war. 

" Colonel," said I, as soon as I could 
get back to the present, " this one morn- 



The Ya7ikee in Quebec. 2^ 

ing amply repays me for the long journey. 
I have seen many places of interest ; have 
looked upon scenes of great beauty, in 
many lands, but this view from the Cita- 
del wall of Quebec, pleases me most of all." 



The practical Colonel suggested break- 
fast at this point, after which we began 
•seeing Quebec proper or rather 

The Two QuebecSf 

the Upper and the Lower town. 

The latter is that narrow portion, that 
-skirts the river, and runs up against the 
hill of solid rock, which rises at the east, 
almost straight up a hundred or more 
feet, while the southern portion, around 
toward Cape Diamond, — on which stands 
the Citadel, — reaches up 350 or more feet, 
and so near to the river, that there is but 
room for one narrow street, with houses — 
much of the way— only on one side. The 



26 The Yankee in Quebec. 

Upper TowD, as its name iDdicates, is all 
that portion on top of the high plateau. 



'-'- Where will we begin" ? I asked. ''We 
must get through to-morrow, or next day 
at furthest." The Colonel only looked 
at me and smiled. At the end of a month 
I joined him in the '' Smile." (" No, not 
that kind^ as the Colonel is * strictly ' — 
save an occasion ") for I was still " look^ 
ing " with much of interest yet unseen. 
The Colonel produced a long list of 



The Yankee in Quebec. 2y ] 
POINTS OF INTERESTS 

IN AND AROUND QUEBEC. \ 

The Citadel. ' j 

Dufferin Terrace. j 

The Governor's Garden. ; 

The Church of Xotre-Dame dee Yic- \ 

toires. \ 

The English Cathedral. A 

The Grand Battery. | 

The Chateau Frontenac. ' 

The Archbishop's Palace. i 

The Basilica and Seminary Chapel. \ 

The Post Office and Chien D'Or. \ 

The Chateau St. Louis. 1 

The Place d'Armes. ' ,| 

Champlain's Old Fort. ; 

The Court House. \ 

The Champlain Monument. ; 

The Site of the Old Parliament House. \ 

The Old Jesuit College. j 

The Old Market Square. i 



28 The Yankee iJi Quebec. 

The City Hall. 

Laval University. 

The Masonic Hall. 

"Where Montcalm died. 

The Ursuline Convent. 

The Esplanade. 

The City Gates and Fortifications. 

The Hotel-Dieu — a hospital. 

The City Palace of Bigot. 

St. Roch's. 

Literary and Historical Society. 

The Churches. 

The Parliament House. 

The Drill Hall. 

The Short-Wallick Monument. 

Places of Execution. 

The Grande Allee. 

"Wolfe's Monument. 

The Plains of Abraham. 

Cemeteries. 

Public Institutions. 

The St. Foye Monument. 

Fort Jacques Cartier. 



The Yankee in Quebec. 2g 

€hateau Bigot and Charlesbourg. 

Beauport. 

The Falls of Montmorency. 

La Bonne Ste. Anne. 

Indian Lorette. 

Oap Rouge. 

Isle of Orleans. 

Chaudiere Falls. 

X.ake St. Joseph. 

Lake Edward. 

Drives Around Quebec. 

Lake Beauport. 

I read over the list and wondered if 
he'd left out anything. " Oh yes, there 
are many things you'll see by the way, 
which the Carrels and Chambers over- 
looked in their guide books, or did not 
think of enough interest to put in, and 
you will wonder why they missed them. 
There are often things you never see in 
guide books, that please more than what 
is on the list. Why, Rube, the great Sir 



JO The Yankee in Quebec. 

LeMoine, has written no less than four- 
teen books on Quebec and its environs, 
and they are all entertaining. Scarcely, 
a spot in this old city but what could ' a 
tale unfold.' Come Rube, what on the 
Kst do you want to do first? " '' Well, 
in this case " said I " Since the ' last ^ 
cannot be ' first ' as its too far out for 
to-day, let's change the program and see 



THE CITADEL. 

The sentinel at the gate must have 
known the Colonel, for he sent four or 
^YQ of his picked men along, to see that 
he (The Col.) didn't carry ofi' any of the 
ordnance, that being all there was in 
sight to carry, but the men were sent 



The Yankee in Quebec. 31 

all the same, and they very courteously 
showed us about. I never was good at 
detailed description, and I don't propose 
beginning on the Citadel. For that mat- 
ter, however, there's nothing to describe, 
but a barren flat rocky expanse of some 
40 acres walled in, with 200 soldiers to 
show tourists around, during the day, and 
have a good time at the Terrace Concerts 
with the girls, in the evening. 

There wasn't a single incident, until 
we reached that little cannon where the 
guides all stop and the spokesman clears 
his throat, throws out his chest, strikes 
an attitude, and tells you, pompous like r 

<* Tliis is the cannon we took from you 
Yankees at Bunker Hill,'' 

That sort o' made me want to answer 
up sharp hke, and I started in, but 
only got as far as : " Yes, you took 
the cannon ; but we—" when the Colo- 
nel stopped me short off. He told me- 



S2 The YaJikee m Quebec. 

— when we got outside, — " I tell you 
E-ube, you came witliin an ace of mak- 
ing a fool of yourself. Why that old 
joke is nearly as ancient as the cannon 
itself. Every Yankee who comes here 
rgets it off. That's why all those soldiers 
came along. They sized you up and knew 
you'd ' fall in ' ". " Well I don't care, " 
said I *' I got even with them on those 

Dinky caps, 

didn't I ? " You see I asked the Colo- 
nel, low like : *' Say Horatius, why does 
the government make these handsome 
young soldiers wear that l^o. 3 cap on 
a No. 6 head ? " I thought I had said 
it low like, but they all heard it, and 
jumped at me as though I were a 
Boer outside of his rifle pit, and wanted 
to know what I meant by that insult 
to the " dinky." " Gentleman," said I, 
scared like, " I take it all back — I apol- 
iogize, I didn't mean it — I meant, why 



The Yankee in Quebec. 3 J 

does your government make you wear a 
No. 6 cap on a Ko. 3 head ? " " Ah^ 
young man 'tis well, 'tis well you did not 
insult the cap." 

That evening we went out on 

DUFFEKIN TERRACE, 

the like of which cannot be seen any- 
where in the world. It overhangs the 
cliff almost 200 feet above the St. Law- 
rence. It is an immense board walk 
nearly a third of a mile in length, and in 
places nearly 100 feet wide. It is called 
Dufferin from the popular Governor-Gen- 
eral whose regime in the seventies so 
changed the whole of Quebec, beautifying 
the old and adding to the new. Twice 
a week, a most excellent band from the 
garrison under the leadership of Mr. 
Joseph Yezina renders a programme of 
music in a manner that would do credit 
to a Sousa The beauty and fashion of 
Quebec come out by the thousands to 



34 ^^^^ Yankee in Quebec. 

listen to the music, as thej^ promenade up 
and down the Terrace. There is no jost- 
ling, no loud talk, no flirting. 

The Colonel says the Quebec Girls 
clonH ffirf. 

and the Colonel is authority. 

As we walked away to the further end 
of the Terrace, I asked where those steps 
led, up there along the Citadel walL ^' Dl 
show you to-morrow," said the Colonel, 
" which is better than telling you." We 
were out early. From the Terrace we 
started up a long flight of stairs, sort of a 

*Tncob's Ladder, 

just like going to your office in a New 
York Sky Scraper on Sunday, when the 
elevator hoy is off" fishing. After going 
up, up, up until you get tired counting 
the steps, you find yourself almost level 
with the Citadel top, then you stop to 
rest and get a view up the St. Lawrence 
river that pays for the long climb. You 



TJic Yankee in One bee. JS 

<}an see almost to the turn of the river 
five miles away, to where the five million 
dollar bridge is being built by the Quebec 
Bridge Company. You come to the end 
of this elevated walk at the south-west 
wall of the Citadel where you find before 
you 

THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 

" You cannot but note here," said I 
" the appropriateness of things. You have 
to climb Jacob's Ladder to reach Abra- 
ham's Plains." 

"Yes, but this historic ground was not 
named alter that kind of an ' Abraham ' " 
replied the Colonel, " he was a Scotchman. 
LeMoine is my authority and I can give 
no better. He tells us that they were 
named for Abraham Martin, from Scot- 
land, and were once much more extensive 
than their present area of 80 acres. As 
soon as you can find the time you will 
do well to read this same authority on 



^6 The Yankee iii Quebec. 

the great battle fought here between 

Generals Wolfe and Montcalm. It is as 

thrilling as a novel. Can you see over 
there, that stone shaft ? that is 

THE WOLFE MONUMENT, 

and marks the spot where the great Eng- 
lish General fell, on September 13th, 1759, 
but heard, before he died, that he had won 
a signal victory over the French General 
Montcalm, who was mortally wounded 
in the same battle, and died the next day. 
Look across to the south west, through 
those woods, to the river. There we will 
find 



where the General landed the morning of 
the great battle." A few minutes walk 
brought us to the " Cove." Along up the 
St. Lawrence for miles the shores are con- 
tinuous bluffs, with here and there a pass- 
age way down to the river. These places^ 



The Yarik^e in QiUbee. 37 

^re called Coves. One of these, the near- 
est to the city was used 1> j General Wolfe 
as the landing place, from his ships, the 
morning of the hattle. All along, as- far 
west as Sillery, three miles from Quebec,^ 
are the rains of houses, factories and piere, 
showing a once prosperous era in the his- 
tory of the city, as a shipping and ship 
building centre. At Sillery or a little to 
the west, this changes, and in the Cove: 
where Dohell & Company, have their 
great booms and timber interests, welind ^ 
a thriving community. Everything seern'^* 
prosperous. It is near here that we find 
Holm wood, the residence of Mr. Dobeli's 
genial partner Mr. L. Evans. Here also i& 
the home of Hon. John Sharpies, another 
large timber merchant. It is in Sillery 
Cove where, in 1637, was built the Manor 
House, which still stands — the oldest 
house about Quebec. From Sillery east,. ■ 
to the City, it is one continuous line of 
desolation, from the top of the blutf, \o 



J 8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

the river's edge, but on the plateau run- 
'iiing to the precipitous bluff and west- 
ward, are some magnificent old country 
seats, along the St. Louis road. 

We go on to a long straggling village 
called 

SILLERY 

on the north shore of the river, three 
miles west from Quebec. Here are the 
Protestant and Catholic 

CEMETERIES 

with their old monuments interspersed 
.among the modern blocks of marble. 
The grounds are well kept and beauti- 
fully shaded. 

This quaint old town has little of inter- 
est to the passing observer, but when the 
volumes of history are thrown open, he 
^finds that almost every foot he treads is 
: historic ground. 

It is such places as Sillery, that makes 
one feel, in attempting to write of them, 



The Yankee in Quebec. jg 

the meagreness of space. Here is an old 
town — nothing in its modern self— so 
full of ancient worth, that one feels as 
though doing it an injustice, to pass it 
with a single page. To the reader who 
has not yet seen Quehec, and knows not 
of the mines of interest, to the student of 
ancient lore, to be found here, I can hut 
say that this little country village, con- 
tains more, than I had once thought, was 
to he found in the whole city itself. And 
this is but an instance. Go in any direc- 
tion you may, the same conditions pre- 
vail. Would that every school teacher in 
America, could spend her vacation here, 
as I know of no place where that vaca- 
tion could be passed with as much real 
profit to herself, and to her pupils, as 
Quebec and its environs. 
• " Come, come. Rube " said the Co- 
lonel, who had been trying to decipher 
some old inscription for the past half 
hour : "- You won't have time for all 



4-0 The Yankee in Quebec. 

that moralizing if you are to get away~ 
to-morrow or next day at furthest. " 
He never would get through talking 
about my first intention of getting away 
" To-morroiv ; " and week after week, 
kept bringing it up, when ever I stopped 
too long over something he had so often 
seen. 

On the Avay back to the city we passed 
two of the remaining 



MARTELLO TOWERS 



near the Plains of Abraham. They are 
circular forts, and look not unlike a flar- 
ing top bucket turned upside down, and 
about as useful now, as the bucket in 
the above condition, although $15,000 
each was used in their construction. Like 
many another defensive pile, however^ 
they were once useful, before the modern 
engines of offense came in. 
Not far away are the 



The Yankee 171 Quebec. ^i 

** Buttes-a-Xeiweii '' 

formerly used for the execution place 
of criminals, but now that Quebec has 
an average of but one execution in 
fifteen years, they don't need any special 
place for that work. Somehow if I may 
use the bull, 

They reclaitn their inurderers here before 
they kill anybody. 

We pass on the way in, at the western 
border of the city, a fine drill hall, and 
the old skating rink, which, since the 
burning of the one theatre of the city, 
two years ago, has been used as a place of 
amusement. The Wilbur Opera Company 
were occupying it the month I spent in 
Quebec— playing to crowded houses — 
one night to 4,380. The Quebecer is a 
lover of music, quick and responsive in 
encore. The Colonel and I dropped in 
to a matinee that afternoon. The Mikado 
^as playing, with Louise Moore as Yum 



42 The Yankee in Quebec. 

Yum. I had seldom seen the part so 
well taken. This beautiful youngPhila- 
delphia girl had, from the start, quite won 
the hearts of the Quebecers. The Colonel 
said he could commend their choice. 

CHURCHES. 

While the places of amusements are 
few, the churches are many, both Protes- 
tant and Catholic, and are well attended. 
Some of them date back over two hun- 
dred years. The church of J^otre-Dame 
des Yictoires, built in 1688, was so named 
to celebrate the victories over Sir William 
Phipps and the destruction by storm, of 
Sir Hovendon Walker's fleet which was 
on its way to bombard Quebec in 1711. 
The manner of soldiers attending service 
is usually very enlivening, as they are 
preceded by the garrison brass band. 

The most beautiful church in Quebec 
is St. Matthew's, whose rector is the bril- 
liant young poet priest, Rev. Frederick 



The Yankee hi Quebec. 4S 

George Scott. Here rest the bones of a 
brother of Sir Walter Scott and those ot 
other notables of the long ago. 

In some of the churches the customs' 
were very odd to me. One in particular 
where you are shown to your seat by a 
man whom you will at once mistake for 
a brigadier general in full uniform. As 
seats were at a premium the day the 
Colonel and I attended this particular 
church, I sought out this high dignitary 
and addressed him : '' General, have yon 
any vacancies ? " The title had its effect,, 
and we were shown the best he had, and 
after service, the finest pictures and other 
things of interest, were pointed out to us^ 
by him. Moral : If you would be shown 
attention use a title if there is a possible- 
excuse for it. 

MORAL QUEBEC 

I have never seen so moral a place a8> 
Quebec. As before mentioned, there has. 



^ .^/ The Yankee i?i Viicbec. 

'been- but one murder committed in this 
^city, of over 80,000 inhabitants, during 
the past fifteen years, l^ot only is Quebec 
remarkably free from crimes, but the 
whole Province of over 1000 miles long 
.and hundreds of miles wide. During 
11900 in this vast area, there were but 46-^, 
all told, committed to the Penitentiary 
^at St. Vincent de Paul and of that num- 
iber but five of them for murder. Drunk- 
enness is so rare, that arrests, for that 
cause are seldom made, unless it be that of 
sailors from ships in the harbor. The 
city is patroled by 68 policemen, and only 
half that number are on duty at the same 
time, and have little to do at that. They 
are a fine body of men, very polite and 
kind to strangers. Possibly the instance 
that will best illustrate the honesty of 
this people, is that one may forget and 
leave an umbrella in a public place on a 
rainy day, and hours after return and 
find it untouched. The Colonel says Jie 



The Yankee in Quebec. 4^ 

knows places where such forgetfulness 
would be attended by different results. 
I did not ask if he had any special loca- 
lity in mind. 

A Lesson for the United states. 

We in the States might well take a 
lesson from Canada. We wait until a 
man becomes a criminal and then make 
a great effort, spending vast sums of mo- 
ney, to reclaim him. Here they " reclaim " 
him before he needs it. At an age when 
our waifs are learning crime in all its 
intricate branches, the poor boys here are 
in schools — clothed and supported by 
the various churches, not alone Catholic, 
but Protestant as well. They may not 
spend so much on magnificent churches 
(although some of them are beautiful) as 
we, but they do certainly get better moral 
results. 

While on this subject of church I must 
tell you of our visit to 



^<5 The Yankee in Quebec. 

STE. ANNE DE BEAUPRK. 

Heretofore, when I had heard of the 
miraculous cures at this church, I was 
under the impression that it was located 
in the North Eastern part of New York 
City, and this is the impression that 
generally prevails — at least in that city, 
whwe there is a little Ste. Anne. But 
the great Ste. Anne is on the St. Law- 
rence, 21 miles down the north shore of 
the river from Quebec. It is visited by 
tens — I might say hundreds of thousands 
annually. Pilgrimages, composed, some- 
times of 1,000 or more, are of almost 
daily occurrence, throughout the warmer 
months of the year, while no visitor to 
Quebec thinks of going away, without 
first having seen La Bonne Ste. Anne. 
The day we went down, the Colonel 
had a small pilgrimage of his own to 
look after. There were General Frank 
M , Judge P and their farai* 



The Yankee in Quebec » ^y 

lies from C , Ohio, and a number 

of teachers from "Wisconsin. "VVe left 
on a very early train and all the way 
down were exercised as to the possibility 
of getting breakfast, but on reaching 
there found that with nineteen hotels to 
select from, we need not return hungry. 

Origin, 

One wonders that a church should have 
been erected in so desqlate and in so 
isolated a spot as this, but the Enigma is 
plain when one hears the story of how 

that, early in 16 a small crew of 

Breton mariners were near being ship- 
wrecked, when they made a vow, that if 
La Bonne Ste. Anne would save them 
from the storm, that they would erect, in 
her honor, a church on the spot where 
they reached the land. They were not 
lost, and their vow was made good, by the 
erection of a small wooden chapel, at 
their landing place. This was replaced 



4-^ The YaJikee i?i Quebec. 

hj a larger one in 1660, and it in turn by 
the magnificent one of stone, that now 
occupies the spot. 

That Miracles are Tef Ber formed 

seems not to be doubted. On either 
side of the church entrance are piles 
of crutches, and other cripple paraphar- 
nalia, that reach almost to the ceiling. 
These have been discarded, from time 
to time, by devout pilgrims, who no 
longer had need to use them. One on 
viewing this array, cannot but feel that the 
Christian Science believers are not of re- 
cent origin in America. JSTearby are several 
little chapels — one a/ac simile of the ori- 
ginal, and just beyond is the chapel of 
the " praying stairs." A long and broad 
flight of steps, reaching from near the 
front entrance to the second story. The 
•pilgrim begins at the first step, kneeling, 
and saying a prayer for each one, until he 
iias reached the top. Such humiliation 



The Yankee in Quebec. 4.9- 

certainly deserves reward. Inside the 
great church, masses are being said for 
the benefit of the various pilgrimages 
(there were four this day) who have came 
to worship. 
A tnore impressive sight I have never seen 

than the marching of one of these long 
processions, as it encircles the wide plaza 
in front of — and then enters— the church, 
carrying banners and singing as only a 
thousand enthusiastic devotees can sing. 
It is beautiful and inspiring. 



The Colonel's Ohio friends remained 
in Quebec for several days, enjoying the 
old town. 

One morning while "doing" Little 
Champlain street, we continued on past 
the great "land slide" — where about 
one hundred yards of the hill swept down,, 
a few years ago, across the street, car- 



^o The Yankee in Quebec, 

rying houses and everything before it, 
burying a number of persons who were 
passing at the time. Just beyond, we 
came to the large board sign, far up the 
side of the almost perpendicular cliff on 
which is seen in large letters : 

" WHERE MONTGOMERY FELL." 

Miss P., looking up at it, most inno- 
cently said : " I don't wonder that he fell, 
but I do wonder how he ever got up 
there." 

Recentl}^ the date of General Montgo- 
mery's assault and death, was questioned, 
b}^ Dr. Kingsford, in a work on Canada. 
He maintained that the General attempt- 
ed his famous assault, on the morning of 
January 1st, 1776, in which he was in- 
stantly killed. The Dr. had not counted 
on the ardent defender of Quebec history, 
when he thus attempted to change facts. 
Sir James M. LeMoine at once brought 
to bear, such an array of proof, that it all 



The Yankee in Quebec. 5/ 

transpired on the morning of December 
31st, 1775, that the date will possibly 
never again be questioned. 



Fairy Tales, 

If some of the heroes of those stirring 
times, had died in as many places as are 
pointed out, as that in which they last 
saw the light of day, one would be led 
to think of the animal of the many lives. 
One enterprising inn -keeper will tell you 
that "This is the very room in which 
Montcalm died," and prove it by an oil 
painting which he has recently had done, 
showing the great General in modern 
uniform, surrounded by members of the 
Red Cross Society, who are doing their 
utmost to keep him alive, until he can be 
taken to the barber shop, near by, where 
you are told that : " Here is where the 
dear General Montcalm died," and w^hile 
you get shaved, you will be given a full 



^2 The Yankee in Quebec. 

history of the sad event. Then the enter-- 
prising barber will sell you a little book, 
which he has had written about it. I 
asked him if he was a native, and he 
said he was. Such enterprise was worthy 
of Connecticut. 

"When the Colonel's friends had gone, 
he was so home-sick, that I had to take 
him out and away from the city, to sort o' 
distract his mind. " Let's see that list 
again " said I — taking it and reading it 
over. " Montmorency, — no we'll save 
that for another day. O ! here is one that 
sounds all right. 

' INDIAN LORETTE ' 

and we've just got time to catch the St. 
John train out to it. Eight miles through 
a beautiful valley, which I never tire 
of looking at." All the way out the Colo- 
nel was telling me about the Huron In- 
dians (over 300 of them) who lived there 
and made baskets, moccasins and did; 



The Yankee in Quebec. ^j- 

all sorts of work, but hard work, which- 
the Colonel said they very nmch disliked, , 
and never did, even though given large 
orders to fill. He said some of the young 
girls were very beautiful, and that if prin- 
cesses were in order, would make fine ones. 
Just at this point, we reached Indian Lo- 
rette and I looked out the windov/ ~ " See, 
See, Colonel, your beautiful Indian Prin- 
cesses, now on the station platform there ! 
Why, you didn't half describe them — I've 
not seen such a lot of pretty girls, at one 
place, since I came to Canada !" On the 
platform was our old friend Major O' Sul- 
livan. The Colonel sort o' hung back,,, 
while I began enthusiastically congratu^ 
lating the Major on the beautiful Indian 
Princesses of Lorette — " Thim ! " said 
the Major nodding toward the crowd o£ 
pretty girls, " Thim, why, theryW 

Stunnier hoorders from Quebec." 
I treated the Colonel real cool after that 
for half an hour, and he deserved it ! 



^^ The Yankee in Quebec, 

Lorette is as prettj and as picturesque as 
its name. It has its falls, which, though 
not as large as Montmorency, yet are 
very fine. We visited the Indian village 
— a little settlement, where the houses are 
dropped down as you would pour out of 
a basket, a lot of blocks. Xo streets, 
although it is all street, sa*^e where the 
houses set. The oddest town you ever 
saw. It's worth the trip if you could see 
nothing else. "We w^ere especially fortu- 
nate in reaching the Indian Catholic 
church just as two visiting Grey Xuns 
were being shown the rare 

Gold Embroidered Vestments 

ot inestimable value, made by the ladies 
of the Court of King Louis XIY, and 
presented to the Huron tribe, at that 
time. For the great favor of getting to 
see these gems, we were indebted to 
Major 0' Sullivan, whose wife — a woman 
of rare culture — the only remaining 



The Yayikee in Quebec. §^ 

daughter of the late Chief Tahourenche 
("The Break of Day" ) stands high in 
church circle?. 

Xear the town, or quite in the limit?, 
is one of the remaining, if not the re- 
maining, herd of wild buffalo in Canada. 
As I looked at those shaggy animals I 
ran back in mind to the time I once 
hunted them on the plains of Kansas. I 
had to tell the Colonel about the day 

I shot my first Buffalo. 

After graphically describing to him 
that day's hunt, how I stealthily crept 
upon the monster, until within twenty 
yards, before I shot him, he quietly asked 
earelessly : " Did you kill the buffalo ? " 
^•Xow see here Colonel,'' said I, riled like, 
" you heard me say plainly, I shot the 
beast, and you should let it stop right 
there. I shot him and would have done 
it again, were it not that by the time he 
got through running in one direction and 



5<5 The Yankee in Quebec. 

I in the other, we were too far apart.'^ 
Some men do so love to spoil a good story ! 
I asked the Colonel, if the Indians 
owned these buffaloes. '* No, an Indian is 
not much on the own — he hardly owns 
himself No, these belong to a firm in 
Quebec, named Holt, Renfrew and Co." 
*' What, do you mean the great furriers 
near the Basilica, where you said every- 
body went to get furs — -furst^ then saw 
the city afterward ? " " Yes, yes, but 
Rube, you want to break yourself of that 
awful habit. It's not popular up here. 
Furs, fur st ! " scornfully. His cold stare 
made me shiver, then turn warm. I told 
him so when he perpetrated a worse one 
than mine, in three words — 

Shive, Furs, Warm, 

"We fortunately met the Indian agent, 
Mr. A. 0. Bastien, whose Huron name is 
Wasendarolen, which translated back into 
English means "The man who talks." 



The Ya7ikee in Quebec. 57 

To this fact we were given much interest- 
ing information about the Huron tribe — 
once a warlike race, but now a most peace- 
ful one, since most are Good Indians. 

We met Poo Bah 

We also met the railroad agent, the road 
contractor, the postmaster, the manufac- 
turer, the general store keeper and village 
magistrate. His name in Japanese would 
be Poo Bah, but in Lorette, it is Henry 
Ross, ^ow, as I was a Ross myself, 
about ten generations ago, I was delight- 
ed to know that this cousin was doing 
80 well, — officially. 

By the time we had done Lorette the 
Colonel had gotten back his spirits and 
we returned from this, one of our best 
trips. Don't miss it when you come to 
<iuebec. 



^8 The Yankee in Quebec, 

The next day it poured rain, but we 
" dodged between drops " or were driveai 
when it was too severe, to visit 

The Ursuline Convent. 

The Laval University. 

The Basilica. 

The English Cathedral. 

The Hotel-Dieu. 

The Literary and Historical Society,. 
and other places in the city where the 
seeing was on the inside. 

THE URSULINE CONVENT 

is very old, dating back to 1639. It 
has gone through a fiery ordeal, having 
been destroyed by that element first in 
1650 and again in 1686. In the old 
chapel was pointed out the grave of 
General Montcalm, who was buried there 
on the evening of September 14th, 1759. 
His grave was dug by a strange grave 
digger. A shell had exploded within the 
ehapel walls, and excavated a deep hole 



The Yayikce in Quebec. ^g 

in the rocky floor, in which he was laid 
to rest. 

The Guide Books of both Chambers 
and Carrel, in speaking of this old con- 
vent, refer to its most interesting feature 
as its chapel, which reminds me that I 
was fortunate to have reached Quebec in 
time to see it, as it was entirely demolish- 
ed during my stay in the city, and a modern 
building was going up when I left. 
There is to me a rare facination in simply 
looking upon the grave of a hero : The 
mortal part of him who once was great, 
may long ago have mouldered away, and 
what I may see is nought but ground 
and yet I am held to the spot by memory 
of what that ground once covered. The 
hero may not have died a Victor, what 
matter, he was still a Hero. Especially 
is this true if that hero were good — 
as well as brave — Montcalm was both. 
The chapel that long marked his resting 
place is gone and may soon be forgotten, 



6o The Yankee in Quebec. 

but that which is more enduring than 
vstone, will make its old site sacred 
ground, for here will ever cling the 
^memory of Montcalm. 



THE LAVAL UNIVERSITY 



Kamed for the great Laval, was but 
glanced through that day. It required a 
subsequent full day to do it even partial 
.justice. I won't here try to faintly des- 
cribe it, it must be seen ; its art gallery 
carefully gone over ; its library of 100,000 
volumes — not to mention the rare 
and very valuable manuscripts — passed 
through ; its thousands of rare specimens 
in mineralogy ; and its vast collection of 

stufted birds, fishes, and well, see it; 

then go to the observatory on the top, 
^here next to the Citadel walls, you will 
liave the best view^ of the Upper and 
Lower Quebecs, and the surrounding 
•country. 



The Ya7ikee in Quebec. 6i 

THE BASILICA 

Is another very old church, having been 
commenced hi 1647. Its chancel is de- 
signed in imitation of St. Peter's at Rome. 
It contains man}^ fine paintings— of Van 
Dyck— even a Rubens is shown you. 
Many of these great works, of the famous 
masters, were secured from the mobs 
that pillaged the churches of Paris during 
the reign of terror in 1793. 

THE ENGLISH CATHEDRAL 

Has much of interest to see. The $10,000 
communion service, a present of George 
the Third, to this church, is very fine 
indeed. Around the walls are monument 
slabs in memory of men whose names 
stand high among those who made early 
history in Canada. 

THE HOTEL-DIEU 

A convent and hospital, was founded 
by a niece of the famous Cardinal Riche- 



62 The Yankee in Quebec. 

lieu in 1 639. It is the oldest of its kind 
in America. It contains some fine rare 
paintings. 

THE LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY 

Has its rooms in Morrin CoUeo^e. It is 
a store house of valuable data of Quebec, 
as well as of Canada. The lover of the 
early history of this country may spend 
hours and days most valuably among the 
archives of this society. Sir James M. 
LeMoine was four times its President. 
His enthusiasm fired the hearts of many an 
able writer, who came to seek, and in 
turn gave back much of rare value to 
history and romance. Francis Parkman 
was enthused by him, and the beautiful 
historical works of that able writer are 
the result ; Wm. Kirby wanted a subject 
and LeMoine gave him that which made 
even the Queen thank him for his *' lie 
Chien d'Or ; " Wm. Dean Howell iias 
much f6r which to credit this President, 



The Yankee in Quebec. 6j 

in " The Chance Acquaintance ; " while 
Gilbert Parker was given by him the 
plot of " The Seats of the Mighty." 
Even the humble pen is oft influenced 
by this ^' Nestor of Canadian History,"^ 
and however the world of readers may 
view it, the wielder of that " pen " will 
ever be grateful to this Grand Old Man. 



LITERARY QUEBEC, 



The Rock City has just reason to be 
proud of its Literati. Much of real 
worth has gone out and beyond its 
walled confines, and the world has gladly 



64. The Yaiikee in Qiiebec. 

accepted the product. Its newspapers 
(both Enghsh and French) are enterpris- 
ing and well edited. I speak from know- 
ledge, for in the month I spent in the 
city, I so persistently read at the French 
publications, that I could read them fairly 
well at the end of the time. While I could 
read, I could not speak it, owing to my 
" Horruble accint." 

Fairl^^ at the head of the list of writers, 
stands the man I have so often referred 

to 

Sir James M, LeMoine. 

Recognized at home, and honored 
abroad, his writings are never questioned 
for accuracy. He goes to the bottom 
and brings up the facts in such lucid man- 
ner, that he will ever stand as authority. 
To give a list of his writings would be to 
furnish my readers with a catologue. 
A few of the number might be men- 
tioned as : Legends of the Lower St. 
Lawrence, Maple Leaves (six series of 



The Yankee in Quebec. 6s 

them), The Tourist's Kote Book, Quebec 
Past and Present, Historical Notes on 
Quebec and its Environs, The Scot in New 
France, Picturesque Quebec, and mauy 
others, not to mention the large number 
he has written in French ; the pamphlets 
he has produced ; the lectures he has 
dehvered ; or the volumes he has written 
on the flowers and birds of Canada. Is 
it any wonder that we find him holding 
honorary diplomas from nearly forty so- 
cieties, including some of the greatest in 
both the United States and Europe ? On 
the list are seen The Andubon Society of 
New York, American Philosophical So- 
ciety of Philadelphia, The International 
Ornithological Congress of Buda Pesth, 
Hungary, and the Historic Diplomatic 
Society of Paris. Is it any wonder that 
Queen Victoria honored him by making 
him a Sir Knight ? And yet to meet him 
in his home at Spencer Grange— a mile 
west of the city— he is so gentle and un- 



^6 The Yankee in Quebec. 

pretentious, that you must know his great 
work to fully realize in whose presence 
you are. In reviewing the literary work 
of this writer, you will instinctly feel that 
his entire life has b-een devoted to that 
work alone, hut instead, he was, for fifty- 
three years, at the head of important 
departments in the Government of Ca- 
nada, with vast details to oversee ; details 
that would seem to leave no time for 
ought else, and yet we find him carrying 
on," during those long years, a research that 
has proved of so great value to the anti- 
quarian, and to the lover of history. 
While Sir James is honored abroad, for 
his mental work, he is loved at home for 
himself. From his fellow literati to the 
driver who carries you to Spencer Grange, 
you find the true position held by this 
charming old man, in the hearts of his 
people. This to him must be sweeter far 
than the plaudits of a foreign world. 



The Yajikee i?i Quebec. 6y 

George Stewar't, Ji\ 

-whose name I find in the Cyclopedia of 
Canadian Biography, followed by D. C. 
L.— F. R. Or. S.— F. R. S. C, is the edi- 
tor of The Mercury of Quebec. He was a 
New York city boy, and this, from the 
above authority, should be pleasing to 
the patriots of that city, to know that 
even though another land had received 
the benefits of his mind, yet, this other 
land, was !N'ew York's debter, for his ex- 
istence. To quote the authority : '' Among 
Canadian literateurs, Geo. Stewart, Jr., 
has fairly won for himself the distinguish- 
ed position and reputation he enjoys, both 
in England and Canada, as a man of 
letters, and one of the brilliant literary 
lights of which our Dominion is so justly 
proud. At the age of sixteen he edited 
The Stamp Collector's Gazette, at eighteen 
he published Steivarfs Quarterly Maga- 
zine^ at thirty he accepted the editorship 
of the Rose-Bedford Canadian Monthly 



68 The Yankee in Quebec. 

aud a year later that of the Quebec Mor- 
ning Chronicle. In IS 79 he was elected a 
member of the International Literary 
Congress of Europe — an honor conferred 
on no other Canadian — having Victor 
Hugo for President. Up to that time, 
those in America, so honored, were Long- 
fellow, Bancroft, Holmes, Emerson and 
Whitier. The Royal Geographical So- 
ciety has bestowed its degree of Fellow 
upon Dr. Stewart, and King's University 
of E"ova Scotia was proud to grant him 
a D. C. L. The Royal Society of Canada 
elected him Secretary for the English 
Section. The Historical Society of Quebec 
has elected him three times its President. 
The Exclusive Literary Club of London, 
the Atheeneum, admitted him an honorary 
member, his sponsors being Matthew Ar- 
nold and Lord Tennyson." 

Then follows a long list of his works. 
He is said (besides his ability as a writer) 



The Yankee in Quebec. 6g 

to be one of the most polished after 
dinner speakers in the Dominion. 

£. T. D. Chambers, 

Show me a man's company and I will 
read for you his position in a given walk 
of life. Again, a writer's ability is known 
from the people with whom he is placedy- 
by those who pay for his work. When 
therefore I find the name of E. T. D. Cham^ 
hers, another of Quebec's men of letters, in 
such company as Rudyard Kipling, Fred. 
Remington, Richard Hardin o- Davis, Paul 
Leicester Ford, Gilbert Parker, Yice- 
Presideut Roosevelt and other li2:hts, 
whose names are known by all who read 
the best, I scarce need say more in his 
favor, and yet when this man's work is- 
known, I can but feel that O'lting^ in the 
above list of writers showed wisdom, not 
alone in choosing him, but in placing his 
name far toward the head of the list. 
Mr. Chambers is English born and edu- 



y2 The Yankee in Quebec. 

friend, my heart fairly bounded for old 
time memories. I do not know his poli- 
tics and wouldn't recognize them if I 
met them, but I do know that as soon as 
I began reading his " The Philosopher," 
I said : " Here's my old friend." 

J. J. Proctor, editor of The Chronicle., 
is not only a prose writer, but a poet as 
well. He has written much that is beau- 
tiful. See this bit from his '' Musings at 
Night fall " — I give a touch of both prose 
and verse, to show the sweet blending of 
his style : " What does the night breeze 
whisper among the Stumps ? A regret for 
the forest glories, and a sigh for the pre- 
sent desolation ; or a vision, of the beauty 
to come ? Who knows ? Does the man, or 
the woman, far advanced in years, know 
whether in the depths of the heart, the 
regret for past joys, the consciousness of 
failing powers, or the prospect of the 
newer and better life, is really the most 
predominant ? I wonder whether I could 



The Yankee in Quebec. 6g 

to be one of the most polished after 
dinner speakers in tlie Dominion. 

B, T, D. Chambers^ 

Show me a man's company and I will 
read for you his position in a given walk 
of life. Again, a writer's ability is known 
from the people with whom he is placed, 
by those who pay for his work. When 
therefore I find the name of E. T. D. Cham- 
bers, another of Quebec's men of letters, in 
such company as Rudyard Kipling, Fred. 
Remington, Richard Harding Davis, Paul 
Leicester Ford, Gilbert Parker, Vice- 
President Roosevelt and other lights, 
whose names are known by all who read 
the best, I scarce need say more in his 
favor, and yet when this man's work is 
known, I can but feel that Outing, in the 
above list of writers showed wisdom, not 
alone in choosing him, but in placing his 
name far toward the head of the list. 
Mr. Chambers is English born and edu- 



^2 The Yankee in Quebec. 

friend, my heart fairly bounded for old 
time memories. I do not know his poli- 
tics and wouldn't recognize them if I 
met them, hut I do know that as soon as 
I began reading his *' The Philosopher," 
I said : " Here's my old friend." 

J. J. Proctor, editor of The Chronicle^ 
is not only a prose writer, but a poet as 
well. He has written much that is beau- 
tiful. See this bit from his " Musings at 
Kight fall " — I give a touch of both prose 
and verse, to show the sweet blending of 
his style : '' What does the night breeze 
whisper among the Stumps ? A regret for 
the forest glories, and a sigh for the pre- 
sent desolation ; or a vision, of the beauty 
to come ? Who knows ? Does the man, or 
the woman, far advanced in years, know 
whether in the depths of the heart, the 
regret for past joys, the consciousness of 
failing powers, or the prospect of the 
newer and better life, is really the most 
predominant ? I wonder whether I could 



The Yankee in Quebec. y^ 

put hig thoughts into verse, and whether 
they would run much in this way : 

Is there a sigh for the days of yore, 

When the soul looks back on the beaten track ? 
Is it *' Ah, for the days that shall be no more, 

And alas I for the present, all gloomy and black ? ' 
God knows — Not I. 

This selection I took at random. It is 
iDut the first verse, and first verses seldom 
equal what follows — would you might 
read it all, I shall — and often. 

Has there been said ought more touch- 
ing on the death of the Queen than this ? 
It is hut one verse, the last one : 

Nay, not farewell, although our prayers no longer 

Be for guarding and for length of days, 

Our grateful love shall echo all the stronger 

The new and nobler hymn our hearts shall raise : 

" Thou, who hast summoned to a higher scene 

Our Sovereign, Mother, friend, God bless the Queen. " 

As one reads on and on the feeling 
grows that England, in her selection of 



yd The Yankee in Quebec. 

going to perfect any idea before it has 
occurred to any one, I should like to 
know. Therefore the Indians were the 
pioneers of civilization, and the benefac- 
tors of mankind." 

Pathos and humor, deep thought and 
light fancy, go mingling on together 
throughout his writings, until one cannot 
but feel ; Ah, here's a genius ! 

Madame Jette, 

]^or is excellence in literature confined 
alone to the men of Quebec, the women 
too are of the number. The cultured 
and withal most charming of women, 
Madame Jette, the wife of the Lieutenant- 
Governor, is a writer recognized by such 
as His Lordship Archbishop Fabre, at 
whose request this lady wrote the life of 
Madam© Youville, who in 1737 founded 
the Order of the Grey !N'uns, a book 
which has been reviewed in most flatter- 
ing terms. Amongst the other literary 



The Yankee in Quebec. 73 

put his thouglits into verse, and whether 
they would run much in this way : 

Is there a sigh for the days of yore, 

When the soul looks back on the beaten track ? 
Is it " Ah, for the days that shall be no more, 

And alas ! for the present, all gloomy and black ? ' 
God knows — Not I. 

This selection I took at random. It is 
hut the first verse, and first verses seldom 
equal what follows— would you might 
read it all, I shall— and often. 

Has there been said ought more touch- 
ing on the death of the Queen than this ? 
It is but one verse, the last one : 

Nay, not farewell, although our prayers no longer 

Be for guarding and for length of days. 

Our grateful love shall echo all the stronger 

The new and nobler hymn our hearts shall raise : 

" Thou, who hast summoned to a higher scene 

Our Sovereign, Mother, friend, God bless the Queen. " 

As one reads on and on the feeling 
grows that England, in her selection of 



y6 The Yankee in Quebec. 

going to perfect any idea before it has 
occurred to any one, I should like to 
knoAv. Therefore the Indians were the 
pioneers of civilization, and the benefac- 
tors of mankind." 

Pathos and humor, deep thought and 
light fancy, go mingling on together 
throughout his writings, until one cannot 
but feel ; Ah, here's a genius ! 

Madame Jette. 

^or is excellence in literature confined 
alone to the men of Quebec, the women 
too are of the number. The cultured 
and withal most charming of women, 
Madame Jette, the wife of the Lieutenant- 
Governor, is a writer recognized by such 
as His Lordship Archbishop Fabre, at 
whose request this lady wrote the life of 
Madamd You vi lie, who in 1737 founded 
the Order of the Grey ]N"uns, a book 
which has been reviewed in most flatter- 
ing terms. Amongst the other literary 



The Yankee in Quebee. 77 

labors of Madame Jette. may be mention- 
ed an exhaustive article on Religious 
Conoregations, prepared at the request of 
Lady Aberdeen, for the book published 
by the Canadian Government, for the 
Paris Exhibition. Madame Jette is not 
only a writer, but a speaker of fine ad- 
dress. In style and manner, she is not 
unlike our own most estimable Mrs. 
Donald McLean, whom we all so appre- 
ciate and admire. 

I>r. 3'. B. Dioiiue. 

The Doctor -an F. R. S. C.,— one of 
Canada's able historians, has written 
largely on both men and times. His Hfe of 
Champlain and that of Jacques Carder 
are most exhaustive works. '' Xew 
France," is one of his best histories, al- 
though he has written much else that is 
excellent. He was chosen as one of the 
writers on the history of Canada gotten 
out by the Government. His Champlain 



8o The Yankee in Quebec. 

Some few of his published works are ; 
Soul's Quest and other poems, My Lat- 
tice and other poems, The Unnamed 
Lake, Old and ]^ew. 

Again I find reason to make a selection, 
to let you see why this young poet so 
pleases me. The verse is picked from 
the body of a poem. I give it, merely to 
show the beauty of rhythm and the 
strength of his style. 

He wrenched from great Nature her secrets, the stars 
in their courses he named ; 

He weighed them and measured their orbits, he har- 
nessed the horses of steam ; 

He captured the lightnings of heaven, the waves of 
the ocean he tamed ; 

And ever the wonder amazed him, as otje that awakes 
from a dream. 

G. M, Fairchild, Jr, 

In a New Jersey town, not far from 
New York City, is a very popular club, 
whose name has always struck my fancy 
-as being a very beautiful one. I had 



The Yankee in Quebec. yy 

labors of Madame Jette, may be mention- 
ed an exhaustive article on Religious 
Congregations, prepared at the request of 
Lady Aberdeen, for the book published 
by the Canadian Government, for the 
Paris Exhibition. Madame Jette is not 
only a writer, but a speaker of fine ad- 
dress. In style and manner, she is not 
unlike our own most estimable Mrs. 
Donald McLean, whom we all so appre- 
ciate and admire. 

!>;•. N. E, Dionne, 

The Doctor -an F. R. S. C.,— one of 
■Canada's able historians, has written 
largely on both men and times. His life of 
Champlain and that of Jacques Cartier 
are most exhaustive works. " !N'ew 
France," is one of his best histories, al- 
though he has written much else that is 
excellent. He was chosen as one of the 
writers on the history of Canada gotten 
out by the Government. His Champlain 



So The Yankee in Quebec. 

Some few of his published works are : 
Soul's Quest and other poems, My Lat- 
tice and other poems, The Unnamed 
Lake, Old and ]^ew. 

Again I find reason to make a selection, 
to let you see why this young poet so 
pleases me. The verse is picked from 
the body of a poem. I give it, merely to 
show the beauty of rhythm and the 
strength of his style. 

He wrenched from great Nature her secrets, the stars 
in their courses he named ; 

He weighed them and measured their orbits, he har- 
nessed the horses of steam ; 

He captured the lightnings of heaven, the waves of 
the ocean he tamed ; 

-And ever the wonder amazed him, as one that awakes 
from a dream. 

€r. M, Fdirchild, Jr, 

In a I^ew Jersey town, not far from 
IN'ew York City, is a very popular club, 
whose name has always struck my fancy 
as being a very beautiful one. I had 



The Yankee in Quebec. 8i 

often wondered where a town not remark- 
able for beauty in naming, had found one 
so euphonious and appropriate for club 
purposes, but on reaching Quebec, and 
while looking over LeMoine's " Explora- 
tions," I ran upon the picture of a fine 
looking man in hunting costume. Be- 
neath the picture is the caption, '* The 
President of the Oritanis in sporting 
jacket." " Oritani," how homelike that 
name sounded ! On reading the sketch, 
next the picture, I found that this Presi- 
dent was none other than the popular 
author, Mr. George M. Fairchild, Jr., 83 
well and favorably known and appreciated, 
in and about I^ew York City. I traced 
him to this N^ew Jersey town, where he had 
resided when in the States, then I knew 
from whence came the name Oritani. Mr. 
Fairchild' has retired from Kew York 
commercial life, and is now residing in his 
beautiful country home, Raven's CliiFe, 
near Cap Rouge, west of Quebec, which 



84. The Yankee in Quebec . 

the best publications, such as Forum — 
Harpers — the Arena and others. Two 
of his poems were crowned by the French 
Academy in 1880 ; he was granted the 
First Montyon Prize, unanimously ; he 
was given an L. L. D. by McGill and 
also by Queens in 1881 ; D. es L. by 
Laval University ; F. R. S. C. in 1882 ; 
one of the founders of the Canadian 
Society of Arts in 1893 and its first Pres- 
ident ; created a CM G. by Her Ma- 
jesty the Queen in 1897. He has written 
largely in French but also w^rites well in 
English prose. He is so great a poet 
that all others without a question accord 
him his place at the top of the list. He 
is Poet Laureate of Canada — a greater 
honor than to be one of the sort that the 
Mother Country has been choosing of 
late years. He has paid my country the 
honor of translating Wra. Dean Howells' : 
" A Chance Acquaintance " and Geo. W. 
Cables " Old Creole Days." His poetical 



The Yankee in Quebec. 8i 

often wondered where a town not remark- 
able for beauty in naming, had found one 
so euphonious' and appropriate for club 
purposes, but on reaching Quebec, and 
while looking over LeMoine's " Explora- 
tions," I ran upon the picture of a fine 
looking man in hunting costume. Be- 
neath the picture is the caption, '* The 
President of the Oritanis in sporting 
jacket." " Oritani," how homelike that 
name sounded ! On reading the sketch, 
next the picture, I found that this Presi- 
dent was none other than the popular 
author, Mr. George M. Fairchild, Jr., so 
well and favorably known and appreciated, 
in and about I^ew York City. I traced 
him to this ^N'ew Jersey town, where he had 
resided when in the States, then I knew 
from whence came the name Oritani. Mr. 
Fairchild has retired from l^ew York 
commercial life, and is now residing in his 
beautiful country home, E-aven's Cliffe, 
near Cap Rouge, west of Quebec, which 



8^ The Yankee in Quebec. 

the best publicatious, such as Forum — 
Harpers — the Arena and others. Two 
of his poems were crowned by the French 
Academy in 1880 ; he was granted the 
First Monty on Prize, unanimously ; he 
was given an L. L. D. by McGill and 
also by Queens in 1881 ; D. es L. by 
Laval University ; F. R. S. C. in 1882.; 
one of the founders of the Canadian 
Society of Arts in 1893 and its first Pres- 
ident ; created a C. M. G. by Her Ma- 
jesty the Queen in 1897. He has written 
largely in French but also writes well in 
English prose. He is so great a poet 
that all others without a question accord 
him his place at the top of the list. He 
is Poet Laureate of Canada — a greater 
honor than to be one of the sort that the 
Mother Country has been choosing of 
late years. He has paid ray country the 
honor of translating Wm. Dean Ho wells' : 
" A Chance Acquaintance " and Geo. W. 
Cables " Old Creole Days." His poetical 



The Yankee in Quebec. 8^ 

works I cannot speak of, since they are 
in French, but I am told that they are 
beautiful, and have a charm of style 
peculiarly their own. How one wishes 
for space when one has found so good a 
subject as this Poet-Genius I 



With this long list of writers worthy 
of passing notice, I find I have barely 
touched upon the number who might be 
named among the literati of Quebec, but 
in a miniature book one cannot give all 
one would, and one must stop somewhere 
lest one's book be not miniature. 



:86 The Yankee hi Quebec. 

CHATEAU BIGOT. 



When I had finished reading Le Chien 
d'Or I had lost all desire of seeing any- 
thing else until we had gone to Chateau 
Bigot, beyond Charlesbourg. It has been 
known by the names of the Hermitage, 
Beaumanoir, Chateau Bigot and a num- 
ber of others, lost in the travel of time. 
We took the Quebec and Lake St. John 
railroad to Charlesbourg, three miles 
north-west from Quebec, and from that 
small village, walked the rest of the way, 
which we Avere told was a short three miles, 
but which proved so far, that the Colonel 
decided, long before we reached it, that 
there was no question whatever about 
Bigot being a married man, and had built 
his Castle so far away, that Mrs. Bigot 
would never risk finding him in the dis- 
tant jungle of woods, at the foot of La 
Montagnedes Ormes (Elm Mountain). The 



The Yankee in Quebec. 8y 

fact of the matter was that the Colonel had 
^onethe wrong road, and got me lost, and 
then married Bigrot off to excuse himself. 



One's imagination would he severely 
taxed to make a Castle out of a building 
30 X 50 feet and two stories high, (all 
of which remains is the foundation and 
a part of two walls) were it not that 
reason will conclusively show that the 
real castle had b<jen constructed of wood, 
and had long ago been burned away. 
That which now stands was nothing more 
than an annex, or outbuilding, since the 
great retinue of servants alone would 
have required many times the room con_ 
tained in the present narrow limits, while 
for the people who were ever round this 
profligate, a vast building would have 
been required to entertain them as Bigot 
was want to entertain. "We find on good 
authority that " Bigot had acquired 



88 The Yankee in Quebec. 

the chateau (possibly built by Talon) and 
enlarged it very much." That which 
remains was originally built as the found- 
ations indicate, neither larger nor smaller. 
Again, a man of his prodigally luxurious 
tastes and untold thousands at his com- 
mand, to gratify those tastes, would never 
have been content (even though it were 
possible), to entertain, in a house so insig- 
nificant as these remaining walls would 
indicate. ]N"o, 

The veal, Castle, a vast structure of wood, 

has long ago passed back to the elements, 
and naught remains to mark the spot. 

To visit this old Castle, is not to look 
upon its stone, and fast crumbling mortar. 
It is to feel that you have seen the place, 
rebuilt its old walls, and repeopled it 
w^ith the characters who once made it& 
name a byword for rapine, and wrong to 
iTew France. The weirdness of the mem- 
ory will cling to the place, long after 



The Yankee in Quebec. 8g 

the walls are leveled to the ground, and 
the grass is growing over the spot, as 
now it is growing over the spot where 
once stood the real "Chateau Bigot." 

The Colonel Loses Ruhe. 

The Colonel not content with getting 
me lost going, lost me more fatiguingly 
on the return, by taking a " nearer cut," 
as he said. We passed the little " lake " 
near the Castle bridge, skirted the Ormes 
mountain, came through meadows of hay, 
where the whole family were out gath- 
ering the bundles on to the queer little 
^arts — asked of workers the way to Char- 
lesbourg and were good natu redly an- 
swered by a " we " (yes) to all our ques- 
tions. " Kel Shemin Sharlesbourg ? " I 
asked, "we, we," was the answer, and 
we walked on. ]^ot one of the family 
seemed to know a word of English. We 
passed others in the fields and I " Kel 
^Shemined " them, but like the first 



go The Yankee in Quebec. 

family of workers they simply answered 
" we." *' Colonel," said I, 

" What's the matter^ any how, with 
my French ? '' 

^' Like yourself, its lost — at least on these 
people " We came to a main road, after 
wandering over more hay fields, and wood 
lots. A short way up this road the 
Colonel said : ^' There is a women Ruhe, 
go over and try your French again." 
" Quee'l est lay Sheming Charley's burg?" 
I said slowly and with emphasis. She 
seemed to grasp my question, smiled, 
pointed up the pike in the direction we 
had been Avalking and said " we." " At 
last we are found Colonel !" I exclaimed, 
and we hurried on, happy in knowing 
that we would be able to reach Charles- 
bourg before the last train left for Que- 
bec. 



The Yankee in Quebec. 91 

A Pretty 3IilU Maid Finds Ilitn, 

We had gone possibly another mile, 
when, coming down the pike, swinging a 
pail, we met a pretty milk maid. We 
raised our hats, I cleared my throat and 
started in laboriously : " Quel estlechemin 
de Charlesbourg ma bonne demoiselle ?" 
When she had concluded a very merry 
laugh at my effort, she replied in the 
best English we had heard for hours : 
"Yeer wurds aire oil roight, but yeer 
accint is horrubel ! Is it the road to 
Sharleyburg ye wants ? " " It is, and 
thank you kindly miss," said the Colonel, 
I not yet having recovered. " Wull, if ye 
iver axpict to git thare, turn round and; 
go duther diriction." '' Why, " said I, 
"there was a woman back there told us 
that this was the Charlesbourg road.'"' 
"An faidth an the woman back thare 
wus roight, it is the Charleyburg rode, 
but loike mony anuther rode in Canady^ 
it hus two inds, an yeve gan and tuk the 



g2 The Yankee in Quebec. 

rang ind." But we didnH \2ikQ " the last 
train to Quebec, that evening." 

The Colonel Tells a Story, 

The Colonel said, the milkmaid's ex- 
planation reminded him of his friend, 
General Pleasanton's, experience at Tun- 
nulton, W. Va., during the war. "The 
General swept down the mountain into 
Tunnelton, after the Confederates. "When 
he got into town the only man in sight 
was an Irishm§,n whom he asked, ' Come 
quick, Mike, tell me how many roads are 
there coming into this place ? ' ' "Wan 
yir honor * and the General soon had it 
well guarded, so that the enemy might 
not get out, with their wagons and artil- 
lery. Later on he found that there was 
another road, and that the Confederates 
had gone. Mike was hunted up, and, 
tried for ' aiding and abetting.' ^ IN'ow, 
said the General, with all the " scare " 
lie could possibly throw into his voice, 



The Yankee in Quebec. ^j 

' what have you to say ? You told us 
that there was but one road comhig into 
this town, when I find instead that there 
are two !' ' AVrangyer honor is, thayer is 
but wan road coming in, duther is going 
out and I orissthe Ribbils have took it ! " 



ST. LOUIS ROAD, 

Skirts the north boundary of the Plains 
of Abraham, and is destined to become 
the great avenue of the city. It runs 
almost due west, and is bordered by many 
a fine old homestead. The first one to 
the south beyond the Plains is " March- 



9^ The Yankee in Quebec. 

moiit." i^ext beyond is " Wolfsfield " 
so called from its being the place on 
which General Wolfe got his troops 
in order, after their disembarkation at 
Wolfe's Cove, near by. It is the property 
of that genial young millionaire, William 
Price. " Thornhill " is passed on the 
north side of the road. It is, like all 
places in that locality, full of historic 
interest. Opposite is Spencer Wood, the 
magnificent residence of Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernor Jette, and joining it, to the Avest is 

Spencer Graii{/e 

the beautiful home of Sir James M. 
LeMoine. It is reached by a densely 
shaded, winding drive way, from the 
Sillery pike. It is an ideal place, sweet 
and restful, much after a south of Eng- 
land country seat. It is not extensive,. 
but the skilled mind and hand has so 
concentrated its beauties that it seems 
far larger than it is. Passing from the 



The Yankee in Quebec. 95 

front piazza, out through great beds of 
flowers and shrubbery, scenting the air 
with their fragrance, you reach the 
woods beyond. Kear a narrow path, as 
you enter the wood, Sir James has had 
set up those blocks, from the city gates,, 
on which w^ere originally cut the names 
of those old portals. When the old were 
torn away for the new, these " name " 
blocks were given to him, as the one most 
worthy of receiving them. Other relics 
are collected at this spot — a veritable 
Sylvan museum. 

Near by Spencer Grange is Bagatelle, 
further on is Woodfield, said to be "the 
most ornate and richly laid-out estate 
around Quebec." Many other beautiful 
and historical homes are seen further 
along to the west, toward and beyond 
Sillery. Bardfield^ the late Bishop Moun- 
tain's country seat, is now owned by 
Albert Henry Furniss of pleasant memory. 
Ben more, once the home of the greatest 



9^ The Yankee in Quebec. 

nimrod in Canada, Colonel Rhodes; Qlare- 
mont, founded by Lieutenant-Governor 
R. E. Caron, on the banks of the St. Law- 
rence, and 

built by, and since occupied by many an 
honorable, but none more so than its 
present owner and occupant, Hon. R. R. 
Dobell, brother of my friend, Alfred 
Dobell, of Liverpool, one of the great 
timber merchant of the world. 

Beauvoir deserves more than a passing 
notice, since it is the 

3Iost beatifiU home in or about Qufbec. 

It is situated on the crest of the cliffs of 
Sillery Cove, (in which the Hon. Mr. Do- 
bell has his timber industry located, and 
in which is to be seen the monument he 
and his employees erected to the memory 
of Chevalier de Sillery and the Rev. Ed- 
ward Masse, who figured so prominently 
in the early days of the settlement here.) 



The Yankee in Quebec. 97 

The lawn s^yeeps back a gentle rise to 
the house, several hundred feet away. 
Every appointment in and about Beau- 
voir is perfect, from Xature, in the great 
profusion of flowers and shrubbery, to the 
valuable marble statuary, and rare paint- 
ings, in art. In the art gallery and in 
the spacious halls are seen many beau- 
tiful works from the brushes of Donovan 
Adams, Sydney Cooper, John Constable 
and many others, to E. Frith's, John 
Knox, and Guido Reni's masterpiece, St. 
Sabastian. Luxury, guided by the rare 
hand of good taste, is seen in every nook, 
restful and pleasing. One of the most 
beautiful pieces of sculpture I have ever 
seen, is in Hon. Mr. Dobell's gallery. It is 
John Adams Acton's " Lady of the 
Lake." The pose is taken where Katherine 
stands in sad contemplation, while the 
gentle hound, refusing the chase, leans 
affectionately against the heroine. The 
statue is life size. 



<)8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

Here a.f^ain I exclaim — " Oh for more 
space 






Then come Rosewood^ Ravenwood^ Long- 
wood, and, Would I, the space to note 
down all the other beautiful old homes 
to be seen to the West of Quebec within 
a distance of ^yq miles. It is like some 
choice part picked from old England, and 
picturesquely dropped down upon the 
banks of the historic St. Lawrence. If you 
should come to Quebec — and come you 
should, and come you will have to, if you 
ever expect to see the most interesting 
spot in the IN'ew World, — you should not 
fail to drive out the St. Louis Road. It wnll 
repay you, and especially so if you have 
read LeMoine's Picturesque Quebec before 
you start. This locality is in so marked 
a contrast to the many cottage-bordered 
roads, to be seen here, that one has to 



The Yankee in Qnebec. gg 

wonder, that both sorts are in the same 
country. The one a continuous line of 
white (color is the exception — white — 
white is the miles of little houses that 
line the roads of Canada) the other with 
country seats, so beautiful, so picturesque, 
so frought with lively interest, that one 
instinctively feels the contrast, and enjoys 
more fully the scenes. Yes, drive out 
St. Louis road. 



THE LAKES. 

To miss seeing the lakes to be found 
in every direction around Quebec, is to 
visit Switzerland and not see its far 
famed sheets of crystal. Here within 



loo The Yankee in Quebec. 

the radius of an easy drive are lakes Cal- 
vaire, St. Charles, St. John, St. John 
Country, St. Joseph, and 

Lake Beatipovt, 

When the Colonel had told me of this 
last lake ; had described its location in 
the very heart of the Lauren tian moun- 
tains, far above sea level, and told me of the 
legend of the Algonquin Chief and his 
lost love, a weird desire held me in sway, 
until we had driven the twelve miles, 
north-w^est of Quebec to visit it. 

We went up, one beautiful Saturday 
afternoon, and remained until Monday 
morning. There are many places, where 
you may find most excellent accommoda- 
tion all about, and near the lake. I find 
in my note book this little picture which 
I sketched on Sunday morning, while the 
Colonel slept on, at the hotel : 

" You look to the east across the lake, 
long and narrow. The water is stilly 



The Yankee in Quebec. lof 

scarcely a ripple moves its surface, tbe- 
shadows of tlie mountains on the fur- 
ther shore mirror themselves in the clear- 
ness of the lake. The sun is just rising. 
over the high elevation and you shade 
your eyes from its slanting rays, as you 
paint the picture. Here and there, you 
see a cleared spot, with a farm house 
set almost against the face of the hill. 
Nothing breaks the stillness of the morn- 
ing, save the tinkling of a bell of^some 
animal, as it feeds, far up the valle^>,- 
across the lake, or the crowing of a 
cock hard by. The birds begin to sing 
their morning songs, and all life soon 
becomes animate. In the very edge, near- 
est you, sits lightly a modern canoe, and 
you let your mind wander back to the 
age, when in its place might have beenr 
seen the rough hewn dugout of the In- 
dian. Miles away to the left, in a de- 
pression of the range, can be seen looming^ 
up two towering peaks, and nearer, rising 



J02 The Yayikee in Quebec. 

from the very edge of the northern shore, 
is Mount Albert, where the legend locates 
the beautiful, but most tragic story of 
the Algonqdins." 



After breakfast we were rowed out 
upon the lake, and visited the little camps 
that line its borders, with their rough 
unhewn log houses, through the windows 
of which we see the great wood "fire- 
places," with bunks for the sleepers. We 
are made to wish that we might have 
the time to spend a whole month, as 
inmates, fishing for the wily trout and 
roaming over the surrounding hills. 

In his odd looking boat in the middle 
of the lake, we came across 

" THE LONE FISHERMAN OF LAKE BEAUFORT," 

James Heal. He is a unique character, 
^nd worthy of more than a passing line. 



The Yankee in Quebec. loj 

He is a veteran of the Crimea, and has to 
his service credit, twenty-two years of 
fighting and camp life. I said he was 
unique. He is one of the rare old soldiers, 
who lay no claim to having, in any of their 
many fights, turned the tide of battle. 
^'No, I've done no deed of valor" said 
he, "I just tried to do my duty. Shot 
when in line, and ran when I had to. 
History wouldn't have been changed a 
bit, even though I had never lived." 
Unique old man, unassuming, but in war, 
I should never have chosen him as an 
antagonist. 



That afternoon, as the Colonel and I 
sat on the border of the lake, at the foot 
of Mount Albert, I asked him to tell me 
an Indian story. Tell me Horatius, the 



I04 The Yankee in Quebec. 

''LEGEND OF THE LAKE." 

Without preliminary lie began : 

" luteiidant Bigot was not the only 
profligate sent out to Xew France, from 
the Mother Country. There was one 
whose trail, legend says, was marked by 
many a tragedy, fully as sad as ever was 
credited to that other wicked man. He 
built a great house here on this lake, and 
surrounded himself with retainers little 
less profligate than himself. His incur- 
sions were extended over a vast territory, 
and tribute exacted of friend and foe. IN'o 
ties were sacred to him. iTo matter the 
home, if it contained that which pleased 
his fancy, it was ruthlessly robbed of it^ 
and brought to his Bacchanalian halls, 
where all hope ceased, for his power was 
absolute. 

Far away on the St. Lawrence dwelt 
the Algonquins. A young chief of the 



The Yankee in Quebec. lo^ 

tribe, wooed and won the heart of the 
old chieftain's daughter Loroline. They 
had played together in childhood, along 
the streams, and were ever mseparable 
and happy. When as a child, a rare flower 
or feather was found, the little Indian 
boy brought it to Loroline, to deck her 
hair, and when he had grown to young 
manhood, he asked her hand in marriage, 
but the stern old Chief, her father, refused 
his consent, unless the lover should bring 
to him the proof, that an ancient enemy of 
his were dead. This enemy was sought 
far and wide, by the young chief, but 
sought in vain, until three years had pass- 
ed, when in a far away country, the two 
met face to face in a lone forest. The old 
-enemy had long known of the Algonquin's 
search for him, and prepared to defend 
his life. Spurred on by his great hope 
•of at last gaining the hand of the gentle 
maiden, and by the thought of the years 
of fruitless going to and fro, his young 



io6 The Yankee in Quebec. 

arm, the elder could not withstand, and 
he was slain. No Knight Errant of old, 
ever sought again, the hand he had 
lairly won, as did the young Algonquin. 
Travel as he might, the distance was so 
great that many weeks had passed, ere 
he reached the home of her, whom he had 
fought to win. What was his sadness 
on reaching the home of the old Algon- 
quin Chief, to find that Loroline had long 
been lost. No one knew aught of her, 
save that she had gone from home 
and had never returned. The whole 
tribe had sought for her in vain. The 
grief of the young chief was great. 
Without stopping to rest from his long 
wanderings, he set out to search for her, 
as he had never before searched. He 
went up and dow^n the mountain passes, 
sought for her in the forests, along the 
streams, ever calling, calling for his love. 
One day he chanced to come upon a castle, 
at the foot of a mountain, in a far away 



The Yankee in Quebec. loy 

country. Why, he knew not, but he felt 
that he was near the object of his search. 
Day after day he wandered about, hoping 
ever that Loroline might be seen, for he 
was now certain she was within the castle. 
Weeks passed away, but he seemed to be 
hoping in vain. The revelry at night 
was past his understanding. The sun oft 
rose ere the sound of the Bacchanalian 
songs were hushed. The days were still, 
but at night the revelry began again. Kew 
faces came and went. Soldiers in uni- 
form, young men of proud mein, with 
debauchery marking their faces, were of 
the number. Aye and women too were 
there, fairer women than he had ever 
dreamed of ; beautiful as his conception 
of the beings about whom the good priest 
had told him, dwelt in the paradise of 
the white man. But in all the number 
that came and went, he ne'er found the 
face of her whose beauty, to his heart, sur- 
passed all others, and yet he knew ho 



io8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

was near her. One day a great cavalcade 

left the castle, and watching for a moment 

when all about was still, the 3^oung chief 

boldly entered, grasping his knife firmly, 

that he be not suddenly set upon. He 

wandered unmolested from rocm to room, 

'until he had reached a part of the castle 

that seemed to be unused. He came to 

^ door that was bolted from within. He 

stopped to plan his next move, when 

'he heard a soft moan beyond the bolted 

door. He listens and hears in the Algon- 

^quin tongue : ' Oh why, why this awful 

-suspense ! Day after day he puts me oiF 

"with promises for the morrow I I cannot 

endure it ! Oh that I might die and rest. 

Test.' What means that awful orpief ! 

* Loroline, Loroline ! ' softly calls the 

Indian. The sobbing ceases. He hears 

a movement within, the bolt sjentlv 

-slides back, and there before him stands 

the object of his long search. Stands as 

^a. statue ! Her long black hair unkempt, 



The Yankee in Quebec. log 

and falling nearly to her knees. No sign 
of recognition is on her face ; no glad 
arms encircle his neck ; no lover's kiss is 
his. 'Loroline, Loroline. have you no 
greeting for me ? No welcome after all 
these years of waiting? ' The cold statue 
simply stares back at him, and answers 
' No --none.' As a lightning flash the 
long knife finds the heart which he had 
lost, and Loroline had found her ' Rest, 
rest' There in the lake, when the ice 
of Spring had broken up, was found the 
body of the young lover, and the two lie 
here, some where, together, in a lone un- 
named, unmarked grave." 



no The Yankee in Quebec. 

TRIP TO THB FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. 

The Colonel called it the " Peace D. 
Resistance, " but could not tell me what 
he meant by it. He said he thought it was 
French or latin, at any rate, he had heard 
nearly every body use it, when speaking 
of Montmorency Falls. When I looked at 
them in all the admiration I could com- 
mand at the moment, I told the Colo- 
nel plainly that I had no fault to find 
with " Everybody," no matter what was 
meant by the expression. I won't spoil 
the view by an attempted description. I 
simply say to you, who come to Quebec, 

Go see the Fails. 

You will behold a beautitul sheet of 
water, pouring over a ledge of rock, 100 
feet higher than our own great Xiagara, 
not so broad, of course, but a greater 
plunge. Don't stop here, but follow up 
the bank of the river, that Hows through 
the deep depression in the hills, until you 



The Yankee in Quebec. iii 

have gone possibly a mile above. Pick 
your way down a well beaten path, 100 
feet, until you -have again reached the 
stream, and you will look upon a freak 
of nature, found no where else among its 
great and curious works. 

The Natural Steps. 

This is a name that will hardly convey 
to your mind correctly, the view that 
will greet your eyes, as you look upon 
the quarter of a mile of the river's bed^. 
where for untold ages the waters have 
cut away, and chisseled out of the flakey 
rocks, a series of steps, as for the entrance 
way to a giant's castle. The river at this 
place has left the " steps " high and dry, 
and has cut down, a sheer depth of 40 
feet or more, on the north side of the bed, 
and as you look over the edge you see it 
go scathing, and foaming, and ever cut- 
ting the channel further back. The rocky 
wall beyond the stream rises perpendi- 



112 The Yankee in Quebec. 

cular, with layers so regular that one 
€Ould almost believe it had been laid by 
the hand of some giant mason of prehis- 
toric time. 

If Quebec had no other Charm 

for the tourist than those of the Mont- 
morency, they would amply repay him 
for a long journey. 



H. 31. rrice. 

Near to, and overlooking the Falls is 
the home of that genial host, Mr. H. M. 
Price, whose hospitality is confined to no 
land. Here have visited those whose 
names have made history, or whose writ- 
ings have found their way into the best 
literature of the world. A few names 
<iulled from the autographs here seen, are 
Princess Louise the Hon Joseph Cham- 
berlain, Lords Lome, Swansea, Lands- 



The Yankee in Quebec, iij 

down, Herscliell, Playfair, Ealeigh and 
Pauncefote ; Counts de Levis, de Turin,, 
and Princes Roland ^N'apoleon Bonaparte 
and Loewenstein, killed early in our 
Philippine war near Manilla, Due and Du- 
chess de Beaufort and many others, one 
of whom is our well known Captain E. L. 
Zelinski, a special friend of the host ; 
whilst among the men of letters who have 
here found entertainment are Archdeacon 
Farrar, Sir James M. Lemoine, Wm. 
Kirby, Gilbert Parker, Joachim Miller, 
Justin McCarthy, and a host of others 
whose names are familliar. 

To wander through these old halls, to 
see the relics of other centuries, — here a 
cannon from the French Admiral's flag- 
ship, sunk at Lewisburg by Wolfe's fleet 
in 1757 ; piles of cannon balls from the 
many sieges of Quebec, and hundreds of 
other things of historic interest, was in- 
deed a rare pleasure. 



iiyj. The Yajikee m Quebec. 

We pass out through the flower gardens 
and beautiful grounds, planned bj Mrs. 
Price, a lady of rare culture and genial 
manner, over a walk that leads out to the 
summer house, built almost over the Falls, 
where a view of great beauty greets the 
eye. This little house is of historic inter- 
est. 

Mailaine de Riedsel, 

wife of the General who commanded the 
Hessian troops, during the American war, 
was one day standing with General Ilaldi- 
mand, looking over the Falls, when she 
suggested, " What a location for a sum- 
mer house !" On her next visit, some weeks 
after, the General led her out to- the same 
spot, where stood the house, built at her 
suggestion. A short distance above where 
this little house now stands, in August, 
1759, a French sentry stood, and shot at 
Captain Knox (author of Knox's Journal) 
of General Wolfe's army, who was taking 
notes on the Falls, on the opposite side 



TJie Yankee iji Qitcbec. ii^ 

of the river, but fortunately the Captain 
retired from view, in time to save his life. 
At that time the army of Wolfe was on 
the east, and that of Montcalm, on the 
west, of the Montmorency. Even to this 
day the old entrenchments are to be 
plainly seen all about the Falls. 

The piers of the suspension bridge, 
which once spanned the Montmorency, 
are standing yet, on the ledge, almost over 
the Falls. The bridge itself broke, and 
fell, in 1856, carrying down, and over the 
Falls, a number of people who were 
crossing at the time. 

Kot far from Mr. Price's house, is 

Haldimand House^ 

built about 1780, by General Haldimand. 
It was the residence of the Duke of Kent, 
father of Queen Victoria. It was here he 
spent three summers, at the end of the 
18th Century, residing in winter at the 
*' Kent House" on St. Louis street, now 



ii6 The Yankee in Quebec. 

used as a " relic store," where may be- 
found much in authentic souvenir line. 
It is noAv 

*' The Little Shoj) '' 

where the tourist who wants to do the 
proper thing always goes, for the little 
cup, of tea, that he may say : " I had my 
cup in the Duke of Kent's house, and 
here's a little souvenir I got there." It 
is just across the street from the hotel 
*' that made Quebec famous," the St. 
Louis, one of the best in the city. 



You noticey this page has no page 
number — " Hadn't noticed it?" That 
shows you must be interested, l^o, it 
really don't belong to the book at all — 
you could skip it, and you would not 
know a whit less about Quebec, but 
speaking of being interested, why now if 
"The Yankee" has attracted your atteur 
tion, even a little bit, yoa should see the 
time I had in '^ew York City when 
hunting for my friend " Bill. " Yes, I 
wrote about it, and told of the day I 
landed, and the time I had getting, to 
Fifth Avenue, where I thought Bill 
lived, but didn't know whereabouts, and , 
the old town being so much bigger than 



I expected I simply couldn't find him at 
all, and had to stop hunting, and let him 
find me, which he was greatly surprised 
to do, a month or two after I had gotten 
there, and met more experience, roaming 
about! — It was the "experience" that 
was " roaming," not I. I had met some- 
thing else one day going up Fifth Avenue, 
and had to stay in the hospital, until I 
got over the " meeting." In fact I might 
say I met two " something seises." One 
was an accident, and the other was 
the cause of it — the dearest, sweetest, 
little girl I'd ever before seen. Some 
people are kind enough to say that 
" Little Helen " was one of the finest 
child characters they'd ever seen — well 
she ivas a nice child, and I did my best 
to tell about her. Then there was her 
brother Edward, and my other friend, 
Tom, the " Anarchist" and the Statesman 
and — don't loose patience to get back to 
Quebec, I am through — but if you want 
to know about that other time I had, and 



can't possibly borroio it, I think the 
Quebec I^ews Company have it, they 
have everything else in the book line, 
besides a great variety of just what the 
tourist wants in Quebec, and down in 
the States if you can't get it anywhere 
else, you might send to the Publishers, 
the Emerson Press, 149, Broadway, in 
New York City. It may seem high 
($1.50) but I'll put the "Yankee" at 25 
or 50 cents, which will sort o' even 
things up, like. 

Oh yes, I nearly forgot to tell you that 
I named my other experience after 

MY FRIEND BILL. 

Hundreds of nice things have been 
said about " him," but I think for con- 
ciseness what Dr. Madison C. Peters, in 
his great magazine The Book World, said 
iast winter, in his mammoth Christmas 
Number, was the best of all. Here's just 
a little bit of the column he gave : " It 
is as interesting as David Harum ( of 



course you've read about him — The Dr. 
don't say this parenthesis, I'm saying it, 
I, Rube) and free from objections (I 
never saw any in it ) of that novel. It is 
as pure in tone as Holme's Breakfast 
Table Series, and as tender as the choicest 
part of Charles Dickens writings. Its 
the best book of light fiction we have 
ever read " — Ain't that cheery ? The 
Dr. and I have been friends ever since, — 
that is on my side of it. That's all — you 
can now return to Quebec, and the pages 
may start again to number. 

p. ^._lf My Friend *' William " don't 
please you, write and tell me about it, 
write anyhow I like to get letters, 
" Where ? " 0, just send it to the post 
office, I'll get it. 



The Yayikee in Quebec. iiy 



AMERICANS 8N QUEBEC, 



Sitting at the hotel table shortly after 
Teaching the city, I chanced to speak to 
a gentleman at my left and was surprised 
and pleased to find in him, Mr. R. E. 
French, from Medina, Ohio — my home 
State — here representing the Quebec Con- 
struction Company, but my surprise grew 
when he introduced me to Mr. J. A. 
"Warren, from the same Ohio town. 
While talking together — the three re- 
maining people, at the table hearing our 
conversation, turned in their reports, — 
one from Detroit and the other two from 
Chicago. I felt as happy as one night 
years ago, 



ii8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

While Camping on a Small Creek in 
Kansas, 

where eight different "freighters" had 
turned in for the night. As soon as the 
camp fires were started and we were all 
seated around for the songs and stories, 
we began, by comparing notes, and to 
the one question, where are you from? 
even of the eight, answered with a will, 
" Ohio." The Colonel says : 

** (ihio is a Good Place to he Born 

in if you don't have to keep it," but the 
Colonel is liable to say anything. 

After this meeting at dinner, I asked 
Horatius if there were many Americans 
in Quebec. I didn't mean visitors, as I 
knew by the throngs at all the hotels 
that the city was full of them. "Yes," said 
the Colonel, " our country is well repre- 
sented," and he took me at once to meet 
our Consul, 



The Yankee in Quebec. iig 

General Win, W, Henry ^ 

who is just finishing his fourth year, with 
a re-appointment for another four years 
term. This proves the esteem in which 
he is held by our own Government, while 
I find on all sides here very much satis- 
faction with him. In fact he and his 
estimable wife are great favorites. He 
is a genial efficient officer. The General 
is from Vermont. During the Rebellion 
he was Colonel of the 10th Regiment of 
that State, and I find on reading up his 
war record, great reason for his having 
been promoted from Lieutenant up 
through the various offices to Brigadier- 
General. When I wrote that other Ver- 
mont friend of mine, B. H. Albee, and 
told him that I had met his friend, General 
Henry, and that I had found him such 
an all-round good citizen that I could 
hardly realize that he was from Vermont 
instead of Ohio, I got, in return, this 
characteristic letter from 



^20 The Yankee in Quebec. 

That Humorist from Vermont : 

'' Your reference to W. W. Henry 
-suggests what I have frequently noticed 
before. There are only two States you 
-ever hear of outside of their own borders 
— Vermont and Ohio — I put Vermont 
'first, merely because it is older than Ohio, 
'but for that reason, I might add, paren- 
thetically, that it is probably no ''fresher." 
^ot that I think Ohio is fresh, but I am 
inclined to think everybody will agree 
"with the proposition, that it is "nervy." 
'There are not so many Vermont people 
in ofiice as there are Buckeyes, but the 
sole reason is that there is not so many 
of them. I presume you have heard me 
remark that there were only two men in 
"Washington public life who always get 

•what they want. One is Senator , 

of Ohio, and the other Senator , of 

Vermont. It will pay you to keep close 
to Gen. Henry. He is a typical Green 
IMountain Boy, but I do think someone 



The Yankee iii Quebec. 121 

ought to warn the Dominion authorities 
that a Verraonter and an Ohioan have 
formed an alliance. In this country, that 
would mean securing all there was in 
the bakery and then lugging away the 
bakery. This is no particular allusion to 
the residents of Vermont and Ohio. But 
it happens in this instance, I know both 
parties to the case. Methinks I scent 
danger to someone or something. 

" If some new office should be created 
by Congress at the coming Session, it is 
a safe bet, that either a Yermonter or an 
Ohioan would get it For instance, they 
created some new offices in the Philip- 
pines. Judge Taft, an Ohioan, was made 
head of the Commission. Mason S. Stone, 
a Vermonter, was made superintendent 
of schools, the two most important offices 
in the Islands I haven't heard of their 
stealing the Island yet. But you will 
recall that they sent some Hoosiers down 
to Cuba, in various official positions, and 



122 The Yankee in Quebec. 

so far as anybody has been able to learn 
the only thing they did leave was the 
Island. There is some evidence to prove 
that they had plans laid to bring that to 
New York and sell it for a summer 
resort. 

" It is said that English people have 
always regarded a Yermonter with suspi- 
cion. I think they have too, because I 
have noticed that they always examine 
a Yermonter's baggage whenever he goes 
into the Dominion. 

"Sorry I'm not in a letter-writing humor 
to-day — The house burned down yester- 
day, and Willie broke his arm and — but 
why bother you with my little troubles." 



After our call on the Consul, the Col- 
onel said : " We will now go down to the 

U. S. IMMIGRATION COMMISSION OFFICE." 

" What's that ?" I asked. " Why don't 
you know that every immigrant that enters 



The Yankee in Quebec. i2j 

this port for the United States has to 
pass an examination ? " 

" Ko, I don't, how would I know ? I 
didn't think we'd have a right to come 
up here and say who could and who 
couldn't land." 

" Oh yes, the Canadian Government are 
quite willing, and show our Commission 
all the courtesies we could wish. The 
Canadian Pacific R. R , have even built a 
commodious imigrant house, in which 
the examinations are held." 

By this time we had reached the oflice, 
but found no one in but Dave Lehrhaupt, 
the Interpreter, from Detroit, Mich. The 
others, whom I met afterward, as you shall 
see, are John Thomas, Commissioner, 
from Ohio ; Horace M. Deal (who had 
served both terms onQ-overnorMcKinley's 
Staff) also from Ohio ; Dr. Victor G. 
Heiser, of the Marine Hospitel service, the 
examining physician for the Commission; 
Ewd. Conradson of Brooklyn ; J. T. Hicks^ 



124- The Yankee in Quebec. 

of Mass. ; P. Enright, of Chicago ; AVm. 
Yaughan Howard, Statistician, of Miss., 
and John Conklin of Harrisburg, Penn. 

Rube becomes an Immigrant, 

I was so much interested in this new 
business that I got permission to go see 
them examine a shipload of immigrants. 
The Colonel not being able to get away 
from his office, that day, turned me over 
to Dave Lehrhaupt. Dave was a charac- 
ter, — the life of the Commission, — but 
before we started down, I noticed the Colo- 
nel and Dave talking very animatedly 
together back in one corner. 

The Colonel and Dave Consxtire. 

Every once in a while they'd look over 
toward me, Dave protesting with the Colo- 
nel, about something, and the Colonel, 
assuring Dave that it would be all right. I 
heard him say : " You do that now Dave, 
it will be great ! Don't let the others know 
it, whatever you do." 



The Yankee in Quebec. 125 

Muhe is it 
I had no notion at the time that I wa& 
" it," but later developments showed that 
I was, with a large " I." When they had 
finished that conversation, Dave said to 
me : " Rube, I'll see you vusn't kit lost 
mit— cum vit me to te sheep, vat is shust 
in, und I vill show yu how ve oxamina- 
tion tem Emicrationers." 

I " cum witTave "—All the way down 
he " oxsplanationed apout tem new siti- 



zens." 



When we reached that great immigrant 
house and found about 300 of the worst 
specimen of humanity I ever saw. I asked 
Dave what they were, and he told me if 
I'd name them, I might have them. The 
inducement wasn't great^ enough for a 
guess, so I let it go. There they were 
huddled together like so many goats. 
Dave took me around back, and left me 
in the great room, with this awful con- 
gregation or aggregation or 



126 The Yankee in Quebec. 

Cotigl^nieration of Nations, 

■and went around in front and took a seat 
with the men, whom I afterward learned 
were the rest of the Commission. 

You should have seen Dave handle 
the different languages that flowed by 
him. He mightn't be up in English but 
when it came to handling a cargo of 
European jargon, it couldn't come too 
fast for Dave, But say, you should have 
eeen that Doctor, stand at that door and 
pass or reject, that load of immigrants. 
Why, before they got within ten feet of 
him he seemed to know just what state 
of health they were in, and in every in- 
stance, on careful examination his sight 
diagnosis proved correct — this is no fairy 
story. You may have heard of him. He 
is the one who went to IN'aples, Italy, 
gome two years ago, to establish a station 
there. At first the Italian government 
would have none of it. They didn't know 



The Yankee in Quebec. i2y 

the Doctor ! He looked young — he is yet 
so, possibly not over thirty-one, but in 
the end proved old enough to get all 
we asked for. 

ntihe Tries to Get Out. 

But this is anticipating. While the 
examinations progressed, all too slowly 
for me, I tried to get out, but every 
door was locked or guarded. I tried to 
get up to where Dave was, but some 
burly bewhiskered wretch, from " No- 
man's Land," would yell at me, and 
crowd me back, and say in his tongue — 
I suppose — " Keep your place in line," 
which I found impossible, for a good 
many reasons, to do, so in dispair I went 
to the furthest end of the great room, and 
disconsolately sat down on a bench, and 
waited for three hours, until that hall 
was empty, then in a half dozen lan- 
guages, I was told to come on ! 



128 The Yankee in Quebec. 

My, hut Iivas Glad to Get Out 

"Get out ;" did I say ? well hardly ! 
The first one who stopped me was that 
Doctor — '' Here, here, what are you 
doing ? Stop that ! " said I indignantly., 
as he began striking me, as though to 
find if I was sound, but do you believe it, 
he kept it u}3 — looked at my eyes, wanted 
me to open my mouth — which I did in 
full force, but he paid no attention to my 
protestation, further than to say 

^' rm 'fraid this Man's Off'' 

tapping his head— "we'll have to hold 
him for examination," and the more I 
protested the more convinced the Doctor 
became. But he pushed me along to a line 
of men, who sat there with Dave, who 
acted as though he had never seen me 
before. " Here, Dave," said I " what does 
this mean ? " and that wretch answered 
me back in one of his fourteen languages,. 



The Yankee in Quebec. i2g 

while Pat Enright wanted to know how 
old I was, where I was born 

3Iorfnon or Gentile, 

married or single, how many children I' 
had, and where they were. If I had any 
money — if bo show it—" Ko." said I " I 
left my pocket book at the hotel, forgot 
it." 

" Hold this nianf and send him bach:, 

he's liable to become a public charge!" 
Worse and worse. Next that John Conk- 
ling began : "Man or Matron? What's 
your business ? Have you had the meas- 
les? Did they leave you in good health ? 
Teeth your own or store goods ? " " Gen- 
tlemen, I'm an American citizen, and I 
protest, this indignity." " Where's yours 
papers?" asked J. T. Hicks. "Havn't 
any — don't need any." " Now see here," 
said 



ISO 



The Yankee in Quebec . 



That hnndsoyne young Howard from 
Mississipjri. 

*' We've had enough of this ! Send it 
back ! Its a clear case ! Look at that 
^ye — why it is really dangerous — worst 
case we've had." And I " It I " 

" Here, officer, see that this man is well 
cared for, until the next ship goes back ; 
we've got to deport him," and again the 
Doctor tapped his head. 

" Dave, Dave, help me out ! I'm 
' It '— 

IHmier for the irhole C'o^mtiission ! '^ 

And we went up to the old hotel that 
has made Quebec famous— The St. Louis 
— near Kent House, on St. Louis street. 
;My what a dinner that hotel did set, no 
wonder it is popular I 

The apologizes on all sides were so 
humble and the dinner so good, that I 
forgave them — especially as I knew they 
were right in saying it was all the fault 



TJie Yankee in Quebec. iji 

^' That Dave Lehrliaupt " who m turn 
never could seem to forget " Tot tay 
vat Rupe vas got oxaminationed mit tern 
groud of emigrationers." 

Our American Customs 

are well looked after at this port by L. L. 
Laniman, F. W. Elkins and H. F. Titus, 
all of Vermont. The Colonel couldn't 
understand how these positions got away 
from Ohio. He was all the while having 
a great deal to say about the 

** Buclxcye hi Office,'- 
but couldn't help admitting that the 
" Buckeye " knew how to run his own 
state and — whenever called upon (which 
was often) — all the others quite as well - 
Queer how a fellow will fight for his 
native state. He may have *' left it for 
years," as I have done, but the old love 
still clinofs. 



IJ2 The Yankee bi Oiiebec. 

I would be derelict of duty were I to 
leave out, that prince of good follows, 



our Vice-Consul, at Riviere du Loup, 
known up here as the " Cedar Tie King 
of Canada." Some men you like as soon 
as you meet them. Colonel Crockett is 
one of that sort. I was greatly enter- 
tained by his story of 

Senator Proctor's Moose Hunt, 

I can't tell it like he did, and won't spoil 
it by trying, but one point is too good 
to leave out. The Senator came up from 
Washington, especially for this hunt. The 
first night they got a moose — and the 
next day another. That evening the Colo- 
nel told Proctor, he must go out alone 
in the boat, with the guide, that he might 
have all the credit for the " head " if 
one were gotten. As luck would have it 
the Senator soon came in with a fine bull 



The Yankee in Quebec. ij^ 

moose. "Happy ? You never saw a proud- 
er hunter than the Senator, when he 
came into camp that night. He never 
earned a million that brought as much 
real pleasure ! I could hardly get him to 
stop enjoying himself long enough to go 
to bed — As it was, along about 2 o'clock 
next morning, I heard the Senator stir- 
ring. I didn't move, but looked out from 
under my blanket. There was the Sena- 
tor sitting bolt upright, on his narrow 
camp bed, near me. I could see him 
shiver, as it was in the fall, and quite 
cool. First thing I knew, the Senator 
commenced talking to himself : ' Oh, 
how cold I am ! But oh, how happy.' 
At that he lay down, covered up, and 
didn't move till morning. That was 
years ago, but the Senator never can get 
over the pleasures of that moose hunt." 
Our vice-Consul at Quebec, is that 
popular General Passenger Agent, 



134- '^^^^ Yankie in Quebec. 

F, S. StocJihig. 

It is really a pleasure, to see the selec- 
tions our Government has made, in its 
officers, to represent our interests in this 
country. 



CAP ROUGE— VIA 8TE. FOYE ROAD. 



" Rube," said the Colonel, early one 
morning, " We are to go out to Cap 
Rouge to-day. You know we promised 
Fairchild we'd come." " Yes," said I, 
"and that artist friend of his — what's his 
name, oh, I have it, J. B. Hance," I 
wasn't going to let him forget Hance, as 
I had heard so much of his magnificent 



Ihe Yankee in Quebec. 1^5 

'■' Sunsets on the St. LaAvrence," his 
" Autumns " and " still lifes" — and then, 
on this last 1-ine, Hance, I remembered 
had said, the day we met him in town, 
that he had some Oiirty years old. — No, it 
would be too bad not to see Ilance and 
his " Autumns" (in parenthesis, I might 
say, if I cared to, that these came near 
proving the Colonel's fall — but you 
mightn't see it, you know, so I'll leave it 
out). 

The tourist who goes to Quebec and 
does not drive out the St. Foye road, 
would be as foolish as the man who goes 
to Rome and leaves out St. Peter's. I've 
driven over more roads than would circle 
the earth, if it were not a tenth as 
large as it is, and Ste. Foye is the pret- 
tiest one of all the number. iSTow as this 
is an honest expression, I need not stop 
to tell you that the view to the north, 
from the time you leave the city, until 
you reach Cap Rouge, nine miles away, 



1^6 The Yankee in Quebec. 

is one line of beauty. Yoii know you 
often see, in any country, here and there, 
bits of fine scenery, but to drive along 
Hte. Fo3^e road is as though driving by 

A Nine 3Ule Canvas, 

on which had been painted all these bits. 
The day I met G. M. Fairchild, Jr., I 
some how located him in a perfect Xest 
of Comfort at 

Havens Cliff'e. 

My mental location was vivid, but far 
away from the real beauty of that loca- 
tion, two hundred feet above the St. Law- 
rence, on a hill that gently rises from 
the river bank to the St. Louis road, and 
quite near to the village of Cap Rouge. 
As we looked out upon the view, from 
the long wide piazza, one could not but 
feel that Gilbert Parker had chosen well 
^he home for writing his great story. 



TJie Yankee in Quebec. 137 

The Seats of the 3Iighty, 

and later on, we could not but again com- 
mend his tine-choice— this time— that of 
heroine of one of his great novels. We 
found the author — poet — artist, busily en- 
gaged on a painting, he was " laying " in. 
All about him was indication of a busy 
man, but with all of his literary and 
artistic work, he has allowed his neigh- 
bors to choose him as the village magis- 
trate, and tor so many other offices, that 
I instinctively thought of my " cousin " 
Boss of Lorette. 

It is visits to such homes as Raven's 
Cliffe, that make the writer of many 
homes, views and situations, wish he had 
chosen one, instead of many subjects. 

In the afternoon Mr. Fairchild took us 
to the fine " view spots," all about Cap 
Rouge, pointing out, here and there, 
places of historic interest. 

" See that old ruin there ? ITot much 
left, but it was at that spot where the first 



ijS The Yankee in Quebec. 

settlement of all this country was made. 
The Cradle of Western Civilization." 

" With the ' rockers ' badly broken," 
put in tlie Colonel, who had been having 
such a good time that he had had little 
to say. I can always tell when the Colonel 
is enjopng himself, its when he's not 
talking. The enjoyment is sometimes 
contagious, but not usually, as he talks 
well, but not always apropos. In trying 
to be pleasant he has been known to make 
Had Breaks, 

One day we had called to see a beautifal 
home. We met here a number of fine 
people, seated beneath the shade of a wide 
spreading English hawthorne tree. We 
were presented, but the Colonel did not 
catch all the names. Of the number was 
a gentleman with. 

As the Colonel fJiought, 

his three pretty daughters. This old gen- 
tleman and he, were sitting together, a 



The Yankee bi Quebec. ijg 

little off from the rest, when the Colonel, 
to be agreeable, said, in a low tone — 
" Pardon me, but tell me please, Avho those 
beautiful ladies are, why they are the 
prettiest I've seen in Quebec ! " 

" Those three sitting together ? They are 
from Philadelphia and you kneio it ! " 
Poor Colonel I felt sorry for him, he 
looked so broken up over the ill fate of hi& 
well meant compliment. 

Toward evening we drove to 
J. B, Ila^ice's, 

the artist of the beautiful Autumns, Sun- 
sets and other Still Lifes. Fairchild had 
always spoken of Hance as an Artist, he 
never told me that he was a 

Hfiniorisf 

as well, so that when this artist told us 
of some of his experiences with the people 
who have no real conception of art, I 
was greatly surprised at the true humor 
he threw into the recital. 



^/o The Yankee in Quebec. 

The Woman trJio Wanted the Real, 

" I have had people," said he, " with no 
conception of what is good in painting, 
think that a picture is not artistic unless 
it is as real as a photograph. One day I 
sold to a lady a gem of a Sunset. It was 
from a hill, overlooking the river. I had, 
of course, not put in everything in sight 
nor had I left out some not iu sight. 
Shortly after that, I was seated, one even- 
ing, a little oiF from the St. Louis road, 
when a carriage drove up, and a lady 
called over to me. ' Oh Mr. Hance, I 
wish to speak to you ! I've been driving 
all day hunting for the spot from which 
you took that picture of mine, and I 
don't find a single place that looks like 
it. I don't believe its real, and if it is not, 
I just don't want it!' She was getting 
quite animated, and I knew that nothing 
but the real would satisfy her. So I 
said, in my best descriptive voice : ' My 



The Yankee in Quebec. i^i 

dear Mrs. New, you are wrong, you will 
not find 

The View Point of Your Gem 

that rare bit of canvas I let you have, — 
the picture which a very wealthy gentle- 
man had me paint, to send to the Queen, 
but poor man died before it was finished, 
and I let you have it, you will not find 
the view point, I say, on the St. Louis 
road. Please follow me up a short dis- 
tance, and. — There ! You will have to 
get out of the carriage, go up that path. 
Yes the one that passes underneath 

Tliat HorneVs Nest, 

on that low hanging limb.' Climb four 
fences, cross through that briar patch, 
beyond that swamp, and you'll find a 
gate into that pretty pasture field, away 
over on the hill. Beautiful view pointy 
' yes that's the field, and that's the- hill,' 
and the very spot where I sat is where 



1^2 The Yankee in Quebec. 

That Vicious Bull 

stands, looking so majestically over the 
landscape. Oh that I could paint animals ! 
I'd soon have him on my canvas ! Yes 
Mrs. !N'ew, go up there and you'll see that 
I am a realist, even to minutia. Why some 
people object to my photographic style ! 
I am very bus}^ catching that rare sunset, 
else I'd go up with you. ' Xot going ? ' 
Why my dear Mrs. ISTew, you should not 
think of returning to ]S"ew York without 
having stood on the spot, where was 
painted that rare gem of yours. Think, 
think, Mrs New, of being so near to that 
view point, and not looking upon the 
scene in reality, which I so feebly tried to 
paint ! ' This? ' Oh, I can let you have 
this Sunset for — well seeing that you 
have bought one, you may have this for 
1250. ' You'll take it if I can get it done 
before you leave the Frontenac ! ' I'll try, 
but really Mrs. I^ew you should go up 
and see that view point ! '' 



The Yankee in Quebec. i^j 



Hance is a lover of the wheel, and is 
often seen riding, far and wide, ever look- 
ing for View Points. In a suhseqnent 
edition I may give you a sketch of him 
as he wheels, from the pen of Gr. Ai. Fair- 
child. I can now, in my haste, give hut 
the verses I find underneath the picture, 
hy that Poet- Artist. 

" He's an artist, .1= B. Haiiee, 
And if he by any chance, 
Sees a bit of landscape us he'ci whcLdiug, 
Why, he paints it on the fly, 
For the public love to buy, 
The picture that has go and local feeling. 

" But let artists all beware, 
If to -copy him they dare. 

For to paint upon a bike while gaily wheeling- 
Takes a genius such as Hance's 
Tv> snatch from hurried glances, 
Tlu' n!-',st(n- piece, witli (jo and local feeling." 



z// The Yankee in Quebec. 

The Colonel Sees Double 

As we drove away from the artist's 
studio, and turned our horse cityward, I 
noticed that the Colonel was acting a 
little oddly, just a little you know, not 
much " off. " The " Sunsets, " or the 
" Autumns " or possibly the " Still Lifes" 
w^ere too much for him. The first I 
noticed it, was when he said : " Rube, I 
thought we only drove one horse out 
this morn. AVhere'd we get that other 
one V 

" Well, Colonel I'm surprised ! It's a 
good thing it was only * thirty years old/ 
If it had been forty, you'd think w^e were 
driving a four horse team instead of one." 

The Horse was French. 

*' One " — That's all, but ah such a one. 
When we left the stable the liveryman 
had told us, in the morning : " Gentlemen 
me zorry, but zis is ze ony horse iz lef. 



The Yankee in Quebec. i^j 

all ze rest out — Zis iz ze good horse if he 
iz no whipped, if he iz whipped, he kicks 
ze buggy all to ze leetle pieces, and leaves 
ze people spread over ze road. Anozzer 
zing, you must drive ze horse wiz ze 
vurd ov ze mout. If he stop, speak to 
ze horse gently, but no whip ze horse. '^ 
When we had come to within possibly' 
two miles of the city, we stopped to catch 
one of those beautiful landscapes over 
the Valley of Beauport. I shall never 
forget that one particular view point. It 
was very fine, but one may become sur- 
feited even with beauty. When we were 
ready to drive off I said : "Get up — Go on 
— Come horsey, dear horsey, move up, it's 
nearly dark." But the "dear horsey" is 
asleep, he don't move a muscle, don't 
even wag an ear, but stands complacent- 
ly. I was getting out of patience trying 
to drive by "ze vurd of mout," and 
would have struck "ze horse," struck 
him viciously, but I did not want to be 



iy].6 The Yankee m Quebec. 

"spread over ze road." People passed us 

by and wondered why we were holding 

such an animated conversation with only 

a horse, but said nothing, although we 

asked several of them what was good for 

an animal that was too partial to Yiew 

Points, but they only smiled and said 

"Bon Soir." The Colonel got out and 

pushed at the buggy, while I pushed on 

the lines, and said '' Go on ! " I learned 

afterwards that the horse thought all the 

time I was saying " Whoa on " and that 

is the reason he had so persistently 

*' whoad/' Finally a linguist came along, 

and in one word helped us out. All he 

said to that kicking French horse of ours 

was 

** Mar cite Don! " 

and oiF we were. 

After that we always had a little talk 
with the horse, before we engaged him, 
to see that he was an ^??^^?s/i-speaking 
animal. 



The Yankee in Quebec. i/f-y 



Mountain Hill, 

Isn't that a combination ! It is so called, 
the Colonel says, from the fact that when 
you go up, you think it a Mountain, and 
when you come down its only a Hill, so 
its called '* Mountain Hill " and you can 
take your choice as its all the same price. 
When I watched the horses draw their 
heavy loads up this winding way, I 
thought of a new expression for strength. 
You know youVe often heard " Strong 
as a horse ! " My expression is even 
stronger than that. It is 

Strong as a Quebec Horse, 

" There's one of the best known old 
hotels in the city," said the Colonel one 



14-8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

day as we were going up this hill past 
the Mountain Hill House. " Its not sa 
high priced, but they say its all right. 
Often people who are to stop in the city 
any length of time, go there to learn 
French, as it is the best French speak- 
ing hotel in Quebec. That don't mean 
that English is not spoken by any means. 
You can have either. Its much easier to 
learn French with French surroundings 
and with good, reasonable service you 
have the whole combination here." 

The Post Office and Le Chieti cVOr 

are right at the top of this hill. You reach 
it by going around the street or by 35 
iron steps right at the post office. 

As we were going up Mountain Hill, 
we came to some stairs— not the ones by 
the post-office, those others, you know, 
about half way up the hill, the ones 
where the boys slide down the bannisters 
until the rails are 



■ The Yankee in Quebec. i^g 

As " Slick]'' as an Indiana Horse Trader, 

*' What's this Colonel ? " 

" Those are the stairs leading down to 
Lower Town called the " Break I^eck 
Stairs." That little street at the bottom 
is Little Cham plain, you've heard so 
much about. By the way, Rube, while 
we're here, I want to show you that 

Cul de Sac 

I've been telling you about." 

As I'd never seen one before and wanted 
to see everything in town I said " Yes 
Colonel take me to see the Cul de Sac, 
what's it like ? " 

" Wait, you'll see," and that — well 
we'll not name him here — took me down 
those stairs, and on down Little Cham- 
plain ; round by the old Market House, 
in which is the Station House, to which 
I was taken the day " 48 " arrested me 
for taking the steps ; up a little distance 
to where the street stops short oft, and 



150 The Yankee in Quebec. 

then turns at right angle east and there 
he stopped, and said : " There it is 
Eube ! " " Where ? " All I could see 
was a corner and the words " Cul de 
Sac " on the wall, and all that fellow did 
was to ask me if I could '' see.'* 

" Yes " said I, " I can see everything 
but the point of this walk " — and he only 
laughed ! 



Rube is Arrested for Taking the Steps, 

The day I had this picture of the Break 
Neck Steps taken, everything was in read- 
iness when policeman No. 48, on inquiry 
ot the photographer found who was to 
blame for the crowd, tapped me on the 
shoulder, and said : ^' You come with me 
to the Station House ! " 






*-"#¥/<• 







BANNISTER SLIDING ON BREAK-NECK STEPS. 



The Yankee in Quebec. 153 

" What have I done ?" I asked, scared 
like, as I'd never been arrested before in 
my life. 

" Its not what you've done, but what 
your going to do. See that mob I Come 



on 1 



I " 



I went. When we got to the Station, 
]S[o. 48 exphained the matter to the ser- 
geant, who wanted to know if Chief Frank 
Pennee knew about it—" Ko," said I, 
" but if you'll call him on the 'phone 
he soon will." 

He was called, and I stated the case, 
when that Chief of both police and good 
fellows, said : " Why yes, Rube, go on, 
take the steps, take the whole town if 
you want it, and welcome ! " Now wasn't 
that nice of him ! If you knew him, 
though, you'd not be surprised. I wish 
we could get such a chief in :N'ew York— 
but then I'm not saying anything away 
from home. 



7^5/ The Yayikee i7i Quebec. 



KUBE SEES QUEBEC FOOTBALL. 

I went out one afternoon to see our 
Yice-Consul, Frank Stocking, play foot- 
ball. He called it football, but you never 
saw it played in such an odd way as these 
teams played it ! They actually played 
it with their feet — iTow think of that ! 

Football with the Feet ! 

Why I was so surprised that I had to 
remark it to Frank, and stranger still, as 
I stood there talking with him, before 
the game opened, I said, " Frank, you 
boys don't seem to be ready for this 
^aoDae ! " 

"''Why — yes we are — see, they are 
•now lining up." 



T^he Yarikee in Quebec. i^^ 

^' I know, but Where's the ambulance, 
and where are your doctors, with their 
bandages, splints, saws and football par- 
apharnalia generally ? " 

" I don't understand your reference ! 
'* Ambulance,' ' Doctors.' No, Rube that's 
too much for me ! " 

'' What ! Do you mean to say you 
don't have these things on the field before 
the game starts ?" He only looked at 
mie in amazement, and I had to tell 
Mm how that down at Yale, Hackensack, 
Harvard, Princeton and Harlem, where 
the game is played in a civilized, cultured 
i^ray, that to begin a game of 

Football Without the Ambulance 

would be the very height of heartlessness 
to the players. 

He walked, away with the blank look 
still upon his face, and just then the game 
began. 



15^ The Yankee in Quebec. 

" Basket Ball at a Female College ? '' 

Well, yes, that was about as near as I can 
describe the way they played. I mean 
as to the gentle manner in which they 
played. I didn't see a single *' wedge " 
and the whole team didn't once pile on 
top of one man for the ostensible purpose 
of keeping him from running to make 
a " goal," wdth the result of flattening 
him out, preparatory to his going to the 
hospital or cemetery. Nor was there 
any fighting, or pulling of hair, or any 
of the exciting features of a real game of 
football as played by cultured players at 
our seats of learning. Why, it was just 
as though the Gladiators of old Rome 
had come out before the vast assembly 
of the populace, and fought with 

Stuffed Clubs Instead of with the Swords, 

But then possibly the fact of the calling 
in life of these players may, to some ex- 
tent, account for the tameness of the 



The Yankee in Quebec. 757 

game. They were not college students. 
ilTo, they were not used to hazings, cane 
rushes and such like manly games of 
muscle hardening exercise. No, they 
were only soldiers from the Citadel, on 
one side, and citizen boys on the other 
— boys who had been to the 

Boer War 
instead of to College. To be sure they 
played good football, as far as making 
goals, but then it was too tame. During 
the whole hour and a half there wasn't 
a single arm or leg or head broken or an 
ear pulled off . In fact, the only thing that 
made it seem at all like a game of foot- 
ball was the torrent of rain in which it 
was played. _^^ 

I nearly forgot to say that Frank pro^ 
mised to let me play as substitute if any 
of the players got killed. But as soon 
as I saw the game started, I knew that 
I'd die of old age before Fd get to play 
" substitute " on a Quebec football team. 



I'^S The Yankee hi Quebec. 



THE COLOXEL TALKS TO RUBE ON " COATS 
OF ARMS. " 

" Colonel, I never was in a place where 
there were so many pretty breast pins 
as Quebec ! " said I one day, out on the 
Terrace. 

" Breast pins — breast pins — what do 
you mean ? " 

"Why, look there at that lady, she 
has on one," said I indicating a beautiful 
woman attired in most excellent taste, 
not far from where we sat. 

" Oh, I see what you mean. That is 
a coat of arms. Let me see —I have it. 
The one the lady is wearing is the ' Que- 
bec City.' A female figure seated at 
the foot of Cape Diamond, upon which 



The Yankee in Quebec. i^^ 

Quebec is built. The motto is in latin, 
but if I remember, the English is : 
' Strong by nature, she grows by indus- 
try.' " 

" Beautiful pin ! beautiful sentiment \ 
I tell you Colonel, when I get back to 
!N"ew York I'm going up to Tiffany's 
and get one, just to keep for dear old 
Quebec." 

" Tiffany — Tiffany, you don't need to 
do that, why J. F. Dobbin, right next to 
the Quebec ITews Co., has them and 
many, many other ' Coats ' besides, yes 
and souvenirs of all kinds : Golden Dogs^ 
jewelry, etc., and what you'll find, is, his 
prices are nothing Tiffanist even if his 
stock is the best in Quebec." 

What I got at Dobbin's gave more real 
pleasure to the folks at home than any- 
thing I brought back from my trip. 



i6o The Yankee in Quebec. 

HACKMEN OF QUEBEC. 

Where tourists are want to go in large 
numbers, there the inevitable hackman 
is much in evidence. Quebec is no ex- 
ception. There are all sorts here, no 
better or no worse, than elsewhere. I 
asked one the fare to a given point 
one afternoon — " 1.50 " said he. 

" Too much !" said I. 

"$1.00 then," said he. 

" Bonjour ! " said I. The very next 
one I met, must have either mistaken me 
for a native, or a 

Thirty Cent Party, 

as that was all he asked to drive me to 
the first man's $1.50 destination. 

There is one thing certain, if your 
time is limited, don't walk, get a carriage 
or caleche, the driver knows just what 
to see, how to see it, and if he is a good 
one — and most of them are well informed 
-and courteous — he will show you in one 



The Yankee in Quebec. i6i 

day, what you could not find in a week, 
and you will see it, besides, to a far 
better advantage than if you try to "go 
it alone." By all means ride, else you 
will always regret not seeing Quebec as 
it must be seen to get the full worth of 
your trip. The best drive is out St. Foye 
Road to Cap Rouge and back by the St. 
Louis. It's worth the price of the visit 
to Quebec. 



The Quebec Car Conductor 

is the embodiment of good nature. One 
day the Colonel and I were coming 
from a long tramp, when we got to the 
end of the line, we found that the cars 
had stopped, for some reason, and none 
were running. Cutting across streets, 
w^e finally saw one coming. The Colonel 
• cut through a little street, and ran for a 



i62 The Yankee in Quebec. 

block. The conductor seeing him coming 
stopped, and waited, although away 
behind time, owing to the stoppage at 
the power house. When the Colonel 
reached the track he asked, out of breath,. 

** Conductor , how soon are you coming 
hach'i'' 

" Ten minutes !" he answered, and 
rang his starting bell as though nothing 
had happened. 

'' What did you do that for Colonel, 
stop a car and not want it ? " 

'* Well, I just thought I'd like to know 
when he was coming back. He didn't 
mind it ! Rube you don't knoAv these 
people. The air, or something gives them 
a better nature up here." 

By the way, this same street car com- 
pany run the line out to Montmorency 
Falls and to Ste. Anne Beaupre. My,. 
my, but they are an enterprising lot of 
men. You know the day we went to- 



The Yankee in Quebec. i6j 

the Falls and you made such a time about 
walking up that hill ? Well I just heard 
that the company is to put in an Electric 
Elevator, so next time you come, you can 
ride up. They say it will be worth the 
trip out, to take that ride, in a sort of an 
observatory car. Yes, and you know the. 
Haldimand House where 

The Queen's Father 

The Duke of Kent lived ? Well, it has 
been refitted, not changed a bit in looks 
from the old time, but just sanitaried. Its 
going to be fine ! People will come to 
spend a week here, just to get the air, a& 
you know the elevation is so high. They 
will make it sort of a center, to visit other 
points around, and then being but a few 
minutes out from Quebec, and cars run- 
ning so often, why lots of tourists will 
run out in preference to staying in town, 
the whole of their visit. Yes, Rube, the 
Quebec Electric Road system is all right. 



164. The Yayikee ui Quebec, 



The Colonel and JRnbe Controvei't J bout 
Cavidy, Cigars and Clothes, 

One day the Colonel and I held a very 
strong controversy on the prices in Que- 
bec and the prices in the States. " I tell 
you Horatius, aside from candy, things 
are not one bit cheaper here, than down 
home. Now those chocolates, your friend 
McWilliam makes, down on St. John 
street, are as good as Huylers' and only 
half as dear. Yes, Colonel, aside from that 
chocolate you've got nothing cheaper." 

*' And I guess, Rube, that aside from 
cigars, that chocolate of McWilliam' s, is 
about all you've priced so far, since you 



The Yankee in Quebec. i6^ 

Now that was mean of the Colonel, 
especially when he had smoked more 
than his half of the cigars, and being a 
very particular smoker would take noth- 
ing but our old American friend the 
" Childs." It seemed so homelike to see 
this " Generously Good " brand up here 
where it is becoming so very popular. 

" Rube I want to prove to you that in 

The Clothes Line 

We can't compete with Quebec." 

" Well, who wants to compete in the 

Clothesline ? 

" Rube you're too dense for me. I 

don't mean ' Clothesline,' I mean in the 

clothing line." 

*' Well why not say so then ? " 

" I will, but there comes H- , one 

of the best dressers in town, now^ we'll 

ask him how prices compare." 
He won't know. He don't get his clothes 

here.*' 



i66 The Yankee in Quebec. 

" Yes but he does ! " 

" A dinner at the Victoria that he 
don't ! I know that " cut " too well ! 
A dinner for the three at the Victoria, 
that Bell, of Fifth Avenue, :N'ew York 
City, makes his suits ! 

Just then H came up — when I 

said : " H I see you can't break 

yourself of your old habit ! " 

" What's that Rube ? 

" Why, of wearing Bell's suits." 

" You're wrong this time, I havn't 
worn a ' Bell ' since I came to Quebec, 
and found that I could get as good at 
about one half the price." 

I lost the dinner, but made it back in 
what I purchased in the " Clothesline." 



The Yankee in Quebec, i6y 

CITY GOVERNMENT OF QUEBEC. 

" What is the form of government here 
in Quebec, Colonel ? " 

"Well, about as our own, with the 
exception, that the 30 City Councilmen 
are elected by the voters, and then these 
Councilmen, and not the voters, choose 
the mayor, while loe vote direct for Mayor 
as well as for Aldermen. A mayor may 
serve as long as he is chosen, here, and 
not for one, two, three or four years, as 
with us, why, 

S, N, JParentf 

the present Mayor of Quebec, has been 
in for eight years, and is such a success 
that you hear all the parties wishing 
that he might get a life term. The city 
never had such a business administration 
iis since Parent has been in." 

" I tell you Colonel, that's refreshing 
to hear, coming as I do from New York, 
where the City Fathers are not — well I'm 



1 68 The Yankee in Quebec, 

not saying anything, away from home 
Colonel, — but it is is really refreshing, I 
say, to find 

A Good Parent 

up here, at the head of the family, and 
they are wise in keeping him in, as long 
as possible." 

" Yes, Rube, and not only is he a good 
Mayor, but an all round good citizen. I 
never saw a man quite, so popular, un- 
less it is Laurier, the Premier. Say, you 
ought to hear that Laurier speak ! Hon- 
estly Rube, I don't believe we have his 
equal, unless its Foraker." The Colonel 
knew my partiality for Joe, and so modi- 
fied his praise. " He hasn't Foraker's 
fire, he's more like Daniels, of Virginia. 
His voice is soft and pleasing, and he 
speaks equally well in either French or 
English. I doubt if we have had an 
American from Lincoln's time to the pre- 
sent, who has more beautifully portrayed 



The Yankee in Quebec. i6g 

that great man's character than has 
Laurier. Bat then coming back to the 
Mayor, you know how you were speak- 
ing, the other day, about the many new 
improvements you saw ? well, they tell 
me here that most of it has been done 
under 

Parent's Administration, 

The man is the most indomitable 
worker I ever saw, with administrative 
abiUty that is marvelous. You know, 
besides being Mayor, he is also Prime 
Minister of this Province." 

" And Colonel, I notice another thing, 
no matter what is done on the IN'ew he 
don't efface the Old— that part which m 
the attractive feature of Quebec " 

I was glad to hear that my favorite 
old city was in such good hands, as I 
sort o' felt it would be well looked after 
while I was away. 



lyo The Yankee in Quebec. 



I met 

Lieutenant- Governor Jette 

while in Quebec. I don't know what he 
has to do, in the governing line, I never 
could get Canadian politics and offices 
quite straight, but I do know that I've 
met few men, more agreeable, as a gentle- 
man, than this Lieutenant-Governor Jette, 
and there was 

Solicitor- General Chas, Fitzjicitriok 

who lives in Quebec. Why, the minute 
he grasped my hand I mentally said : 
" Ouch 1 here's a man as is a man." One 
who throws his soul right into the greet- 
ing. When General Henry told me how 
popular Canada's Solicitor-General was, 



The Yankee in Quebec. lyi 

I said : " Consul, Canada can well con- 
gratulate itself ! 

" Speaking of popular men " said Gen- 
eral Henry, '' you should meet 

Lord Minto, Governor- Generdl of 
Canada f 

now stopping at the Governor-General's 
quarters at the Citadel." And the next 
day the Consul and I called to see him. I 
saw at once why Lord Minto was a guest 
always welcome in Quebec. AVhen I left 
Canada, and had summed up the men in 
office I had been fortunate in meeting 
I think that every one of them could 
have had my unanimous vote, irrespective 
of party. I guess loorth counts far more 
than jpull up there —but I'm nor saying 
anything away from home. 



iy2 The Yankee in Quebec. 



THE QUEBEC CANTILEVER BRIDGE, 



One of the great bridges of the world 
is now under construction across the St. 
Lawrence River, five mile west of Quebec. 

It is being built by the Quebec Bridge 
Company. Its officers are : 

President : Hon. S. N". Parent, whom 
I have mentioned as Mayor of Quebec. 

Vice-Presidents : Hon. R. R. Dobell 
and Rodolphe Audette. 

Directors : Herbert M. Price, H. J. 
Beemer, Gaspard LeMoine, J. B. Lali- 
berte, John Breakey, IS". Rioux, Vesey 
Boswell and Hon. N. Garneau. 

Chief Engineer : E. A. Hoare. 

Secretary ctnd Treasurer : Ulric Barthe. 

The Corner Stone was laid October, 2, 
1900, and the bridge is to be completed in 
1904. 



The Yankee in Qtiebec. ijs 

The contractor for the foundation is 
M. P. Davis, of Ottawa, and for the 
supertructure The Phoenix Bridge Co., 
of Phoenixville, Penn. 

The dimensions are 3,300 feet over all. 

There are two abutments, two anchor 
piers and two main piers. The distance 
between the main piers is 1800 feet from 
centre to centre. The height of the head- 
way is 150 feet, at high w^ater. The 
highest point of towers is 360 feet above 
high water. 

The river at this point is 2,500 feet 
wide at high water and 1,S95 at low. 

I am greatly indebted for the above 
facts, not to mention very many cour- 
tesies, to the Secretary 

3Ir, JJlric Barthe 

whom I should have included in Quebec's 
Literati. He has written largely on com- 
mercial subjects, being an expert on water 
power and manufacturing generally. He 



iy4- The Yaiikee in Quebec, 

was for years the editor of the old Elec- 
teur^ the Liberal Organ, also editor of the 
Semaine Commercial of Quebec, which he 
resigned to take his present position. 

During my visit I had the very great 
pleasure of meeting 

The Canadian Press Association 

and their wives — The Colonel says : 
" Yes, and their daughters too " — The 
Colonel will never allow me to leave out 
the " daughters," especially if they are as 
pretty and bright as those of the Press 
Association of Canada. The Association 
had been on its Annual Excursion and 
were given a day's outing by the 

Contractor, Mr, M, JP. Davis, 

A finer body of men I've seldom met than 
the Press of Canada. " Yes, Colonel, I 
won't forget to mention the daughters." 
Again I must commend the Colonel on 
liis " eye for the beautiful." 



The Yankee in Quebec. 177 



TABLETS. 

We were going up toward the Citadel 
one day when the Colonel called my 
attention to a tablet on one of those old 
stone buildings, that you have to pass in 
that lane like driveway. "We stopped to 
read : 

" Placed to their memory by Several American 
Children. Within this building and under this tablet,, 
repose the remains of 13 soldiers of General Mont- 
gomery's Army, who were killed the 31st Dec. 1775." 

** Colonel, wouldn't it be a good notion 
for some other ' Several American Child- 
ren,' to follow the example of the ones 
who put up this tablet, to remove that old 
board sign on the side of the hill and put 
a respectable one at the real spot of Mont- 
gomery's fall ? All nations want to be 



lyS The Yajikee m Quebec. 

accurate and should especially have marks 
to designate the spot where even an 
enemy fell, if for no other reason than to 
prove that he did fall." The Colonel 
quite agreed with me. 



Kotoriety and Fame 

One day at a hotel, m Quebec, I noted 
the difference between notoriety and 
fame. 

Captain J. E. Bernier, who is to be 
sent by the people of Canada, to search 
for the IS'orth Pole, was explaining his 
plans of reaching there, when Joe Corbett 
— Jim's brother — happened along. The 
Captain, ship, crew and all, were left to 
get to the Pole as best they might, while 
everybody ran off to look at Joe, who 
was modestly trying to escape notice. 



The Yankee i7i Quebec. lyc) 

Apropos of Capt. Bernier. He has 
$80,000 subscribed of the $li^O,000 neces- 
sary to build and equip hie ship, and ex- 
pects shortly to begin work. The Captain 
is a man of an iron constitution. He has 
followed the sea since he was twelve 
years old (he is now 49) and was master 
of a ship at seventeen. He has been 
master of 47 ships in all. He has been 
to Greenland, and is confident that he can 
reach the Pole. He is of a seagoing family. 
Counting the years of service of each 
member of the Berniers, beginning with 
his grandfather, there is to their credit 
749 years. 

*'I yever Took a Drop of Liquor in my 
Life '' 

said the Captain to me that day, I re- 
maining as a listener. This assertion on 
the part of the Captain, please remem- 
ber, was not called forth by any request 
or invitation whatever on my part. I was 



i8o The Yankee in Quebec. 

simply a silent listener, that's all, and 
asked no questions outside of my line of 
duty, which was to draw the Captain 
out, to tell how he expected to get ta 
the Pole, on $120,000, before Baldwin, 
with his big start and $500,000 to back 
it. He said there were some things some 
men could'nt do if they had 

Four 3TillionSf 

but remember he did'nt say a word against 
Baldwin and his team. 

If reaching that great cold goal is to 
be done by a living man, I believe I'd 
put up my money on Captain Bernier. 
He is the build and has the indomitable 
grit that will be required, if ever it is 
reached. The Captain kindly promised 
to bring me a shiver — no, I mean a sliver y 
from the pole, (that " h " bothers me a 
good deal, since my return. Up in Quebec 
they use it and they don't use it so promis- 
cuously, that I find myself doing the same 



The Yankee in Quebec. i8i 

thing.) When I outlined this sketch to the 
Colonel, he asked me which represented 
" Notoriety " and which " Fame " and I 
said it wasn't yet decided. 



BRIEFS, 



The Coming of the Duke and Duchess of 
Cornwall, 

During my visit in Quehec the event 
paramount was the coming of their Royal 
Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of 
Cornwall on September 17. Streets were 
being paved, the old walls of the city 
repaired, houses painted, lawns put in 



i82 The Yankee in Quebec, 

the smoothness of velvet, Committees 
preparing a program to fill in every hour 
of the two gala days, and all with the 
prospect of the event proving the most 
remarkable since the visit of the Duke's 
father, King Edward, then Prince of 
Wales, forty-one years ago. 



I am indebted for many business cour- 
tesies to the firm of Auger & Son, well 
known throughout the States. Through 
them I learned much of the business 
ways of Quebec. 

While trade in that city may not be 
-carried through with the rush so neces- 
rsary in some of our great marts, yet it 
is fairly prompt and thorough, and now 
that it is becoming one of the great grain 
<ientres, it will soon get on that greater 
promptness. 



The Yajikee i7i Quebec. i8^ 

Quebec has not yet Waked ^lp 

to her posgibilities. Her location, natur- 
ally good, has not been taken advantage 
of, but once she begins to find what she 
really is, the stride of advancement will 
be gigantic. 

Her people send their money away for 
questionable silver mines, while an un- 
developed 

Gold Mine 

lies within her borders. Already this 
richer mine is beginning to be worked, a 
little on the surface ; new shafts are being 
sunk and ''pay dirt" found. When the 
great bridge across the St. Lawrence is 
completed, there will be no holding back 
to the rapid developing of Quebec. Money 
will pour in for investments, this old 
town will put on the airs of a western 
city, and she will take her place among 
her sisters, that her position so fitly en- 
titles her to tak«. 



1 8 4- The Yankee i7i Quebec. 



He Wasn't a Colonel ! 

Just as the book has reached this stage, 
I chanced upon a strange meeting. It 
was that of M. T. Shine. When he was 
introduced to me as from Kentucky, I 
said : " Very glad to meet you Colonel ! " 

" Pm no Colonel" said he. " What, and 
from Kentucky ? " I could not realize 
for some minutes, the phenomenon. ISTo, 
this man is only a Judge. He said he 
was lonesome down home so came to 
Quebec. I proved a point raised by my 
" Colonel " who had contended that 
Kentucky had no men of prominence 
who did not have some military title. 

Get Guide Books, 

To see Quebec properly the first thing 
you should do, after registering, is to get 
guide books, and read up the history of 



The Ya7tkee in Quebec. 185 

the places you are to visit. There are two 
excellent ones here — get both, as one 
may give a • point not mentioned by the 
other, and the cost is so trifling that you 
cannot afford to lose a single point of 
interest. 

They have a Care for Each Other, 

There is nothing that will so clearly 
indicate the heart character of a people, 
as when death calls away one of their 
number. I could not but notice this heart 
feeling shown at a funeral held a few 
days before I left Quebec. Although E. 
C. Whiting was not rich, only an account- 
ant, yet his funeral was so largely attend- 
ed, that the procession of men walking, 
extended for many blocks — and in the 
procession were all classes, rich and poor. 
It was pleasing to note that the hurry and 
struggle of life had not blotted out here, 
that beautiful beatitude " Love Thy 
Neighbor." 



i86 The Yankee in Quebec. 

Weddings 

are also a feature — especially so in the 
country, among the well-to-do farmers. 
After the ceremony, the bridal tour is 
taken by the bride and groom, with often 
a procession of carriages accompanying 
them. They put in the day visiting 
friends all about the country for miles, 
and then at night begin the festivities, 
that sometimes last for two or three days. 
Occasionally the good parish father ob- 
jects to the dancing, then there is trouble. 
While I was up there a young couple 
were married. All preparation was ready 
for a great ball, to celebrate the occasion. 
The priest objected, and when he heard 
that his objections were overruled, and 
that the music had started up, he at once 
told the sexton and 

" The Seocton Tolled the Bell. '' 

It did sound gruesome, the " fiddles " 
going to the accompaniment of the doleful. 



The Yafikee in Quebec. iSy 

church bell hard by, — but the ball won 
out, as the old sexton couldn't compete 
with the happy wedding dancers. 

Quebec don't tax property direct, but 
on the rented value. Two houses of 
of the same intrinsic worth, equally well 
located, one may pay much more to the 
treasurer than the other by reason of a 
higher rent receipt. The Colonel says 
that this is bad on the assessor as it 
gives him little chance of favoritism — 
" for revenue only." 



You never saw such a city as Quebec. 
It don't have fires like we do. Why I 
didn't see 

A Five Engine 

during my whole stay. I asked the Colo- 
nel the cause of all this " coolness" and 



i88 The Ya7ikee in Quebec. 

he said — ( Don't know how true it is, as 
the Colonel told me so many odd things) 
that : " Quebec saves up her fires and 
has them all at once, why, she has been 
known to burn 1600 houses at a single 
* burning bee,' and that was in 1845 
before they had very many to spare, 
either. Then again Rube you have 

noticed that Quebec has very few ." 

The Colonel, when he told me this, had 
that blank filled up with a certain nation 
or people once very prominent in the 
early school histories, but I won't men- 
tion the nation for it might think me dis- 
respectful of their business methods-^ at 
any rate Quebec has scarcely any fires. 



The Yankee m Quebec. i8g 



HOW TO GET FROM NEW YORK TO 
QUEBEC. 



I have been asked already many times, 
for the best route to take from New 
York to Quebec. If all questions were 
as easily answered as this, I would gladly 
quit worrying. Before my visit to that 
city I looked upon it as an out of the 
way place— coming over certain routes 
it is, but when I answer the oft' asked 
question as to which is the best way, 
you will at once see for yourself, when I 
tell you that you have but to go to the New 
York, New Haven and Hartford Station 
at 42 Street in New York city, take a train 
at 4 o'clock P. M., and arrive in Quebec 
the following morning. It is absolutely not 
as much trouble, coming by this route, 
as it would be to go from Brooklyn to 



I go The Yankee in Quebec. 

Mount Vernon, on the upper edge of N'ew 
York city. I might have even said, , 
eaBier than going from one end of Greater 
New York to the other. Then again, 
when is added to the easy access, the 
beautiful scenery of the journey, up 
through Connecticut into Massachusetts, 
where you change at Springfield, 

Over the Boston and Maine ^ and Quebec 
Central Ry, 

via Springfield and Sherbrooke, with its 
comfortable cars and unsurpassed service, 
without change of cars, you will see both 
the ease of access and the comfort of this 
refute. I would tell you besides that if 
you want to go to some of the finest sum- 
mer resorts in America, that you can 
reach them by this same 

Quebec Central and lis Connections, 

It traverses a country of beautiful lakes 
and rivers in the most pleasant way, to 




ST. LOUIS— The Hotel that made Quebec Famaus, 



The Yatikee in Quebec. igj 

the most pleasant places. But then it is 
not my purpose to tell you about these 
places. 

What I Want You to Do is to Go to Quebec, 

I speak thus, as I would have thanked 
any one for the advice I give. 

I found Quebec only by accident, 
and the absolute happiness of my visit 
there makes me feel that my mission in 
life is to send every one I can to that 
charming old city. If you can discern 
truth in written words, you will know 
that I am writing this from the heart, 
and with not so much as one penny's gain 
by your going. I know that when you 
have seen it, as I saw it, you will say as 
I say, that for real joy there is 

No Other Citt/inthe Western Hemisphere 

that can even in a small measure compare 
with it. There are many — in fact, few 
less — more architecturaly beautiful, but 



ig<^ The Yankee hi Quebec. 

^no other one has the combination here 
:found. Yiew8 unsurpassed, rivers, islands, 
falls, valleys and mountains, all within a 
near radius, while the city itself is one 
vast volume of romantic history, and its 
people most delightful to know. 



-liAKB ST. JOHN, ROBERVAL AND SAGUENAY. 

The Colonel told me so much of these 
places that he came near inducing me to 
visit them. " Go see them. Rube, and 
in your awkward way tell the people 
down home how delightful a trip it is to 
start from Quebec, go via the Lake St. 
John road to Lake St. John, then round 
back to Quebec via the Saguenay. People 
will read your stuft', just because its no 
good, while the tons and tons of matter 
printed about these places get no further 
than the railroad offices down home. 
Why, before I came up here, I'd never 



The Yankee in Quebec. ig^ 

even heard the word Saguenay used once^ 
and it's one of 

The Weirdest Most Picturesque Rivers 

on the American continent. I really wish 
you'd go Kube, the people at home would 
be glad to know of these delightful places,, 
and somehow they believe what you say 
of a place." 

" Well, for that reason then, it might 
be well for these pet places of yours that 
I do not go." 

" I'll risk the Saguenay every time. 
If you'll go, I have no fear of what you'll^ 
eay of it." 

I was sorry to refuse the Colonel, but 
didn't take the trip. I do not know how 
much or how little I missed, as one can't 
tell until one sees. 



.ig6 The Yankee in Quebec. 



VALADICTORY. 



When I thought to write my impres- 
sions of Quebec, and to lend you my eyes 
through which to see the old place, I 
wondered could I write a one hundred 
page pamphlet, and told the printer that 
it would not reach beyond that limit. I 
have lightly touched a point of interest 
here and there ; told you of men worthy 
of volumes ; told of them oft in a single 
sentence ; have let you look at the bare 
•edge of many a sea over which you might 
sail long and pleasantly ; have taken you 



The Yankee in Quebec. igy 

to the mouth of a mine, and told you that 
here lies vast stores of wealth undug, and 
yet with these light touches, or in many, 
very many cases unnoted points worthy 
of note, and yet, I say, my little hook is 
more than douhle the size I had promised 
to give. 

When first I thought to write, it was 
" What can I put in ? " At the close it 
is " what can I leave out ? " 

All books have an end, or have had, 
until now. This one has none. I've tried 
hard, very hard to reach an end, a place 
to stop, but the effort is a useless one, 
and so, I'll simply quit w^riting, as the 
oarsman stops rowing. He stops rowing 
but the boat drifts and drifts, and though 
he is lost to view he still moves on. 

Dear Old Quebec, Good by. I came to 
your gates a stranger. I came for ties of 
wood, and carry back ties more enduring 
than stone — ties of the heart. For every 



i<^8 The Yankee in Quebec. 

courtesy I thank you, and assure you 
that as long as memory is vouchsafed 
me, so long will you hold a loving place 
in my inmost affection. Would that I 
might speak all I feel, but language is 
meagre and fails my wish. If you could 
read my heart, you would know how 
hard it is to say — Quebec — Good by. 



)-^Vjr /^^^ 



^ I 



Vankce In Ou^b^( 




A(i6d \ands at J^alhousie Street . Quebec 



^tPi&i90} 







By Appointment FurtHers to Her Majesty 
Queen Alexandra. 

HOLT, RENFREW & CO. 

• 35-37, BUADE STREET QUEBEC • 

Visitors Should Not Xeave 
Quebec Without Seeing . . . 

HOLTJENFREW & Go's 

Magnificent Display of 

FUR8 and FUR 
GARMENTS 



Whiiih will be shown with pleasure 
and Without solicitation to purchase 



BRANCH : 5 KING STREET EAST, TORONTO. 



Library of Congress 
Branch Bindery, 1902 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





017 463 471 3 



